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Replacement bridges (and I thought pickups were confusing...)

Mr. Papa

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Joined
Jan 14, 2002
Messages
1,347
Recommendations on Replacement bridges? (and I thought pickups were confusing...)

Any recommendations on a ABR-1 style bridge (and tailpiece, why not...) for use on an '88 LPC? This has a Nashville bridge so it would have to be one of the units that will work OK on those studs.
And, GOLD finish (aged, preferably) is obviously needed.

Thanks! I have looked high and low and read a bunch of old threats, but still am totally confused. Some are steel, some aluminum, there seems to be agreement that Zinc is not great, still I feel confused...

Dare I ask about saddle material? (Just go with brass?)

https://postimg.org/image/m04pw0yj5/
https://postimg.org/image/o5z0qj1zl/
https://postimg.org/image/tinv4npw1/
 
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Zentar

New member
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Oct 1, 2011
Messages
830
ABR1 is a little more narrow than a Nashville. The wider Nashville gives the saddles a little bit more room to adjust during intonation. If you need the extra adjustability don't use ABR1. They look virtually identical.

Brass weigh almost exactly the same as zamak(zinc).
Aluminum and titanium weigh almost exactly the same. Titanium cost a lot more.
An aluminum tail piece weighs 1/3 as much as the brass tP.
Try Faber
 

ultra

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2001
Messages
950
https://www.faberusa.com/product/3072-gloss-gold-natural-brass-saddles/

https://www.faberusa.com/product/3014-gloss-gold-tp-59-tailpiece/

https://www.faberusa.com/product/3005-gloss-gold-tone-lock-inch/


Check out the Faber website for more options. I use these to convert from Nashville bridges to ABRs. There are conversion bridge posts for your guitar too if you wish to
improve string to body coupling. .... as below:

https://www.faberusa.com/product-category/faber-bridge-studs/for-nashville-conversions/

I hope these help. I can attest to their quality and tonal improvement.
 

Mr. Papa

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Joined
Jan 14, 2002
Messages
1,347
Thanks fellas, I'm looking hard at Faber. Any comments on the difference between the bridge stud conversion kits? Insert vs. NSWKIT specifically, as this is a Nashville conversion not new construction.
 

ultra

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2001
Messages
950
Thanks fellas, I'm looking hard at Faber. Any comments on the difference between the bridge stud conversion kits? Insert vs. NSWKIT specifically, as this is a Nashville conversion not new construction.

The whole reason for replacing the Nashville bridge is the sloppy machining of the bridge studs into the Nashville collars. This is where you lose that all important transfer of vibrations from strings to body.
INMO, the NSWKIT is better machined than the original Nashville posts but you end up still losing coupling with the original collars.

My preference is the InSert as it fits tightly and deeply into the existing holes. I have also used the BSWKIT which requires a tap set to cut a thread into the existing holes and then the BSWKIT is screwed into those holes. Excellent results if you are prepared to do this type of work.

The easiest option with a great result is the InSert and it can be reversed (but why would you want to when it is retrograde step sonically)
 

Zentar

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Oct 1, 2011
Messages
830
You can return anything that doesn't fit. Conversions get confusing. Faber will give you a return address on phone.
 

ultra

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2001
Messages
950
Mr Papa, go with the Faber InSert. The NSWKIT is a compromise as it is still screwing into the Nashville collars (rubbish and sloppy).

The InSert is tapped gently into the Nashville collar hole and it snug and deep giving great coupling. It is reversible if needed but why would you do that when you have improved the sonic qualities
over the rubbish Nashville system?.

Larry Corsa is a stand up guy and will advise you for the best result.
 

caco58

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Jan 19, 2017
Messages
9
Heys guys and gals if any here. I'm new in here so bare with me if this question has already been post. Anybody have experiences with roller bridges and TUSQ nuts? If so what brand of roller do you like? Any differences in bone nut and TUSQ? Any other info is greatly appreciated. I have two Gibson guitar, LP Custom and a LP Standard. Thanks!
 

latestarter

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Nov 9, 2009
Messages
4,065
Heys guys and gals if any here. I'm new in here so bare with me if this question has already been post. Anybody have experiences with roller bridges and TUSQ nuts? If so what brand of roller do you like? Any differences in bone nut and TUSQ? Any other info is greatly appreciated. I have two Gibson guitar, LP Custom and a LP Standard. Thanks!

Ive had poor experience with roller bridges. They've been too sloppy or seemed to suck tone. If you're using a Bigsby a good setup and proper nut prep would possibly be better (while staying with TOM).
 

caco58

New member
Joined
Jan 19, 2017
Messages
9
Ive had poor experience with roller bridges. They've been too sloppy or seemed to suck tone. If you're using a Bigsby a good setup and proper nut prep would possibly be better (while staying with TOM).

I read that somewhere else, they said that the roller was sloppy and had large tolerances. Thanks for the reply.
 

Zentar

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Oct 1, 2011
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830
Tusq is plastic bone. Bone seems to offer more snob appeal but if that;s what you're into then use it. Bone seems a little friendlier to cut saddles into but I never thought cutting saddle slots was easy in any materiel. If the nut deadens sound it is probably not the materiel but the quality of the slot cutting. If you haven't cut saddle slots before don't try learning on the more expensive bone nuts because you will faila few times to begin with.

I think Taylor fell in love with Tusq

You can even buy Walrus bone or Camel other exotic deceased animals. That stuff is probably Canadian road kills though.
 
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