I Installed 2" Nickel-Plated Brass ABR Studs and ...

[TedB]

... the result was positive.

This particular 2002 R0 was already a strong sounding example, and this swap made a nominal improvement to articulation and string energy, but without coloring the sound like stainless steel. I installed a set of 2" plain brass ABR studs on my 'black beauty' custom, and the result was the same. I sent another nickel-plated 2" set to forum member in the UK for his evaluation, which was similarly favorable - better harmonics, note bloom, clarity, and a slight increase in resonance.

While I've concurred with the general idea of the 'mapleflame mod', what I didn't find attractive was the use of stainless. I'm not a fan of stainless strings, frets, etc., so that kept me from diving in.

Overall, I feel that brass is the best way to go for those seeking a better sound from their Historics, albeit a sound that is more closely conforms to vintage examples, as the originals were also brass.

Just FYI.

 

[sickboy79]

You're talking about the bridge studs/screws right? Interesting find. I recently installed a Callaham ABR bridge on my 95 Custom Shop Custom, and then did the Callaham SS bridge screws/studs later. HUGE difference both times. I like it best with the SS Callaham SS bridge scews/studs. Big increase in clarity in the wound strings.

 

[Hamerfan]

While I've concurred with the general idea of the 'mapleflame mod', what I didn't find attractive was the use of stainless. I'm not a fan of stainless strings, frets, etc., so that kept me from diving in.

Stainless steel is not the core of MapleFlame's Mod idea. He wanted to have the stud deeper into the body - completely thru the maple and deep into the mahogany body.
He used steel because its easy to get and resists bending better than brass. Bended studs are often complained by LP users.
You can do the MapleFlame Mod with every material. If you any one can get machined alu, he should give it a go since this reduces mass.

 

[MapleFlame]

Stainless steel is not the core of MapleFlame's Mod idea. He wanted to have the stud deeper into the body - completely thru the maple and deep into the mahogany body.
He used steel because its easy to get and resists bending better than brass. Bended studs are often complained by LP users.
You can do the MapleFlame Mod with every material. If you any one can get machined alu, he should give it a go since this reduces mass.

It's a guitar by guitar choice, the same post could be used in 10 different guitar and yield a different result. I have found that the stainless will really open up a dead sounding guitar. If you have a bright guitar, obviously it wouldn't be the right choice. But as mention by Hamerfan, the deeper you go will reduce the highs. Not only can you use different metal material, but you can also play with the depth the post go. I have actually used two different post, one brass on the treble string side, and stainless on the bass side.

 

[TedB]

Stainless steel is not the core of MapleFlame's Mod idea. He wanted to have the stud deeper into the body - completely thru the maple and deep into the mahogany body.
He used steel because its easy to get and resists bending better than brass. ...

As I clearly explained above, I agree with the idea, but I didn't want stainless. The 2" nickel-plated brass studs do not bend like short studs. I wanted nickel-plated brass because that's what the originals used. Had they used something else, I would have used that.

 

[jimmymack]

OKay, can you tell us where you got nickel plated brass studs, I haven't looked, but maybe you have located some that are perfect. Is it a hardware store item?

I am using one brass post on the treble side, and a SS on the bass side, because that's what sounded the best. Each guitar will respond to different materials differently. And I tried several with different bridges. Brass saddles helped also.

 

[TedB]

This can only be ordered as bar stock, so I had to cut it to length, dress the ends, then run everything through a die. I have a few sets left over, so you're welcome to ping me if you're looking for one.

Different materials at critical points will definitely impact the sound, no debate there. As always, what sounds best is subjective. In my case, I want duplicate the original LP's sound as best as I can before I consider the practicality of major surgery (e.g. HM). This was a step in that direction. It took the sound I had, and made it better without making it different.

 

[AndrewSimon]

Rods are available here:

http://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Plated-Threaded-Overall-Length/dp/B000FOYL9W

I have used these and they sound fine.

:lol

 

[jimmymack]

Thank You Ted. I am using metric sized studs on an Epiphone "Lucille" so I can't use the #6-32 studs, but Thank you. Especially nice results when dealing with an Epiphone, although I went back to using one stock (brass) stud and the stock bridge with new brass saddles. Otherwise the quality of everything is pretty darn good!.