Dan - truss rod rattle problem

[Philalban7]

I have a problem with the truss rod rattling. I've tried tightening the acorn nut but it just seems to move the rattle (or point of contact). I've also tried adding a washer.

What can else can I try? Is it possible that the problem will solve itself? In a previous post someone has mentioned squeezing silicone into the truss rod channel. Has anyone attempted this?

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

[BJEC]

Hi!

I had the same problem with my LP Jr.
In order to fix it, a luthier "injected" a low-viscosity silicone through the dots. We filled 20 milli-liters inside the trussrod-channel! Now everything is quite!

Best regards,

Bjoern

 

[paulpaw]

Had a bad rattle in a 80's Heritage gold top that I bought used. Did the usual washer trick, but no deal--still rattled like crazy. Brought it to my local shop that does a lot or repairs--told me the fingerboard would have to come off. I brought it home and started thinking about it. I really didn't want to inject any "substance" into the channel. I took a wound string, either a 46 or 42, and inserted it into the channel, non ball end first, until it could go no further. They are stiff enough to slide right in and you can easily pull it back out. In the end, I wound up with three wound strings cradling the rod and the rattle was totally eliminated. I snipped them to length right at the channel opening--they can easily be pulled out if need be with a small, pointy needle-nose pliers. I've had this guitar for a while and have done numerous truss rod adjusts on it, the rod functions normally with no binding. This guitar is one of my go-to axes and is the best sounding and playing "paul" that I own (including a historic).

Try it, you can always pull it back out if it doesn't work for you.

 

[Dan Erlewine]

Had a bad rattle in a 80's Heritage gold top that I bought used. Did the usual washer trick, but no deal--still rattled like crazy. Brought it to my local shop that does a lot or repairs--told me the fingerboard would have to come off. I brought it home and started thinking about it. I really didn't want to inject any "substance" into the channel. I took a wound string, either a 46 or 42, and inserted it into the channel, non ball end first, until it could go no further. They are stiff enough to slide right in and you can easily pull it back out. In the end, I wound up with three wound strings cradling the rod and the rattle was totally eliminated. I snipped them to length right at the channel opening--they can easily be pulled out if need be with a small, pointy needle-nose pliers. I've had this guitar for a while and have done numerous truss rod adjusts on it, the rod functions normally with no binding. This guitar is one of my go-to axes and is the best sounding and playing "paul" that I own (including a historic).

Try it, you can always pull it back out if it doesn't work for you.

Paulpaw: Great! You are clever. I like your fix! Never tried that one.

dan

 

[Philalban7]

Paulpaw,

I've actually already tried something very similar to your idea. I found a spool of the plastic line that you use as the blade on a garden trimmer.

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/product/product.jsp?CATID=182664&entryFlag=false&PRODID=179838

I cut one end across diagonally so that it was pointed and inserted it into the truss rod channel. I pushed as far as it could go (it stopped somewhere around the 4th fret) and the rattle has been cured. I've left a little sticking out so I could remove it at any time. Simple but effective!

 

[Mike M]

I had an older LP that was purchased from Gruhn with that problem. The luthier removed one of the inlays in the center and put a screw inside to put pressure on the truss rod. Sounds perfect now.

 

[paulpaw]

(blushing)

Gee, thanks Dan. I love your books and your articles in the "old" GP and have gained a lot of valuable knowledge and inspiration for coming up with solutions to problems like this one from them. I've learned a lot about setting-up and taking care of my own stuff from you. Thanks for the compliment, it means a lot coming from you.

Philaban, I'm glad your problem has been solved. IMHO, a lot of folks look for complex answers to simple problems--before I think about pulling fretboards or inlays, I'm going to try and find a easier way, if possible.

Cheers

John

 

[redjet55]

OK I just realized that that’s what causing the sympathetic buzz on my used ’57 R.I. Not sure why it started but it didn’t seem to be there when I first got it home. Now it’s all over the neck.

I rapped the back of the neck with my knuckles and can hear the truss rod rattle, has it come loose that the set end suddenly, that doesn’t seem likely but... the action right now it set just right so I don’t really want to mess with it but now the buzz is driving me crazy!

so what is the washer trick? And I’m assuming that when you are pushing either the string or the plastic line into the truss rod cavity it’s going in from the adjustment end after removing the adjustment nut?

When you do this how long does it take before the neck settles in again?

thanks.

 

[redjet55]

next problem, I took off the acorn nut at the head stock end but on the goldtop there appears to be a washer glued into place that the nut rides against. This makes perfect sense but the washer does not appear to be removable? Can I use a small screw driver and pry it off or is there something I'm not considering?

Without being able to remove this washer there is no way to stuff the cavity with anything. Any ideas?

 

[Philalban7]

redjet55,

I didn't remove the acorn nut, fortunately I had a small hole next to the 'glued in washer' so I could just slide the plastic line down into the channel. The neck didn't need any settling in time. I did it with the guitar tuned up at normal tension. As soon as the line hit the vibration spot it stopped and I haven't had any problems since.

The idea of adding a washer is to change the bow of the rod slightly, there by moving the rod from the vibration point. Just add a washer between the acorn nut and the 'glued in washer'. It didn't work for me but hopefully will for you.

 

[Scott Lentz]

Truss rod filler strips can be very difficult because they are fit at to an exacting measurement. At the factory when the wood changes with increase or decrease in humidity,the filler piece must be adjusted by sanding it down or making thicker pieces!

 

[redjet55]

thanks for the info guys,

Scott, when you say filler strips are you talking about the wood strip that would cover the truss rod channel or something more like what the others have done, a strip that would be inserted to damp vibrations?

 

[redjet55]

talked to the luthier,

found out that when the truss rod is loosened the rattle goes away until the truss rod is tightened up so Scott you are correct. Looks like this filler strip is got a gap in it and when the truss rod is tightened it rattles.

Now comes the hard part, neither myself or the luthier seem to be able to remove the washer at the headstock end of the rod. Anybody know anything about that washer. We both felt it should come out relatively easily but it seems it is either stuck into the wood at the end of the neck or it is thicker than it looks and recessed a bit.

Anyone know for sure?

Right now the temp solution is more relief than I’d like.

 

[FLICKOFLASH]

Hi!

I had the same problem with my LP Jr.
In order to fix it, a luthier "injected" a low-viscosity silicone through the dots. We filled 20 milli-liters inside the trussrod-channel! Now everything is quite!

Best regards,

Bjoern

I think that silicone would be a tone killer . :ahem think hide glue or a hard drying glue would be better for tone & resonance