Thanks Mapleflame!!

skydog6653 · Oct 29, 2014

Well, I read where Roman Rist had said for a rock-solid bridge, to leave the screw heads on. That makes adjustment a little rough. With the extra 1/8" sticking up, it worked out perfect to tighten a nut onto each post above the ABR-1. It really locks everything together tight!

TM1 · Oct 29, 2014

I've ended up over the years using 2" brass or a combo of brass and stainless.

skydog6653 · Oct 29, 2014

I agree, 2" seems to be optimum. I use brass saddles under the treble 3 strings, titanium on the bass side, so the two different metal posts makes great sense too. I'll give it a try. Think there's any danger in wearing out the threads in the wood?

J T · Oct 29, 2014

skydog6653 said:
...Think there's any danger in wearing out the threads in the wood?

Turn the post gently COUNTER-CLOCKWISE in the open hole until it "clicks and drops" at that exact point turn clockwise into the hole. That way, you will find the old threads.

dragonfire · Oct 29, 2014

I wish I had seen this thread way back when. . . but I forged ahead and did this mod before I knew it had a name and a 12 page thread on it!

Highly recommended - it allows my guitar to "breathe" better. . . if that makes sense.

I also used brass on the treble side and ss on the bass side and I also have nylon saddles on my treble side as well.

I guess we all find our way in the search for the ultimate tone!

Donk23 · Nov 23, 2014

Hello from germany.

Does anyone know where to get 6-32" screws or threaded rod made of brass here in germany?

SS threaded rod no problem, but brass?

best regards

rjjuly · Aug 6, 2015

First time poster to this forum. Just found this thread while researching a retrofit of an abr bridge onto my '78 LP standard, from Nashville bridge. I am no hard-core guitar player like some on this forum (sounds like some of you have some amazing collections!), but this was my first electric, and my only LP, bought in '80 and has a lot of sentimental value for me. I'm looking forward to making it sing. I will be plugging and redrilling the bridgepost holes (meaning my luthier will), and doing the mod from this amazing thread. I'm in the UK. Can anyone give me a pointer to some of the 316 grade threaded rod or screws of 2", here in the UK? If not, then I could go ahead and plump for shipping from the US. If it is necessary to do so, I can buy some extra for any other forum members in the EU that need it.

jimijam33 · Jan 2, 2016

Mapleflame Mod

I will try this mod on my '96 R9. Has anyone compared the differences in tone going through different depth's ('96 R9 stock depth is 13/16, to 1", to 1.5") using the same stainless rod (on same guitar)? I would be curious to know if anyone tried this (after checking each incremental depth) to see if there was a noticeable difference.

R9's use different metal parts through the years of production. Are there any other similar (cheaper) mods that I could do to increase the top end of my 1996 R9 (without pup change)? Everything is stock except pickups.

Jayallen · Feb 19, 2017

I just got time to do this and I have to say Wow. It made my guitar have way more resonance and better tonal quality. It was definitely was worth it. I got my parts from Menards for under $3.00. Except the 8-32 tap #29 drill combo set was almost $4 bucks. I used 3 6/32 nuts to get the posts on and off. I used a toothpick to measure the posts heights and used a black Sharpe to mark the toothpick before I took them out so that I could achieve the same height when I put the new posts back in. I also used the toothpick to see how deep the hole was too before I installed the new screws. For the ends where I cut the top off of I just kept unscrewing the nuts on and off till the threads were fixed. I used 1.5" 6/32 stainless machine screw. You can get a 3" 6/32 threaded rod and cut down to size you need. I tapped two 8/32 holes in the ABR-1 Bridge for the two stainless set screws see the last 2 picture. Now the ABR-1 bridge is secured to the posts. Set screws could of been a tad shorter.

WeeVikes · Oct 25, 2017

Hello, my name is Mike. I just discovered this forum, and this mod in particular yesterday. I have a 2006 Epiphone LP Standard that I have tricked out, and was wondering if this mod would be possible on my guitar? I’m pretty sure the Epi’s have “metric” parts so I wasn’t sure that the screws recommended would work, or if the Epi bridge would be compatible. I am also planning on adding a TonePros bridge and tailpiece — is this mod compatible with the TonePros gear?

I’ve been thru a lot of the thread, but not all of it, so I apologize if these questions have been answered.

Thank you all in advance.

akstrat61 · Oct 26, 2017

Instead of reading 12 pages of this thread, any chance the Mods would let Mapleflame put the new and improved mod up in a Sticky? Stainless, brass, 2 inch , 1.5, two thumbwheels, two nuts.... Just a quick easy reference of what he feels the best of the best is? Sorry if this seems lazy, but maybe it would be a cool addition?:hank:##:hank

Unstablemedic · Oct 26, 2017

WeeVikes said:
Hello, my name is Mike. I just discovered this forum, and this mod in particular yesterday. I have a 2006 Epiphone LP Standard that I have tricked out, and was wondering if this mod would be possible on my guitar? I’m pretty sure the Epi’s have “metric” parts so I wasn’t sure that the screws recommended would work, or if the Epi bridge would be compatible. I am also planning on adding a TonePros bridge and tailpiece — is this mod compatible with the TonePros gear?

I’ve been thru a lot of the thread, but not all of it, so I apologize if these questions have been answered.

Thank you all in advance.

This mod is for abr bridges where the studs goes directly into the maple top. I believe your bridge is similar to the USA Gibsons with the studs that go into metal bushings that are pressed into the maple top. 6/32” studs would be too small and your bridge would fall over, not being able to support the strings. You could do this mod, but it would take some work. You’d have to remove the metal bushings and then glue maple plugs into the holes. Once the glue dries, then re drill the holes for 6/32” studs. Now I did this to a Les Paul traditional and later learned that bridge placement is dependent on top carve and neck angle. That guitar never would intonate properly and I ended up taking it all out. I went with the tonepros abr bridge, tail piece, and conversion studs and it worked much better. The conversion studs are the most important part, so if you go this route, include them too. Good luck!!

WeeVikes · Oct 26, 2017

Thank you, Unstable! You just saved me a tremendous headache or two!

murkat · Oct 27, 2017

Wow, 46 pages and still going. This is Awesome.

Arnold M. · Jul 16, 2018

having worked in the machining industry for a lifetime I would like to offer .... McMaster-Carr link list's the hardness for their 6/32 stainless rod at Rockwell B70 and 6/32 Brass rod at Rockwell B55. I saw some posters showing links to 6/32 rod for sale on Amazon. If working on a 5K Gibson I would suggest buying proper metal from a reputable manufacturer. Rod sold on Amazon from unknown origin are most likely of dubious quality and could possess the hardness of drop-forged peanut butter ... can you say "snap" off in your post hole ?? ... please don't rush into this operation haphazardly

jimijam33 · Jul 17, 2018

Arnold M. said:
having worked in the machining industry for a lifetime I would like to offer .... McMaster-Carr link list's the hardness for their 6/32 stainless rod at Rockwell B70 and 6/32 Brass rod at Rockwell B55. I saw some posters showing links to 6/32 rod for sale on Amazon. If working on a 5K Gibson I would suggest buying proper metal from a reputable manufacturer. Rod sold on Amazon from unknown origin are most likely of dubious quality and could possess the hardness of drop-forged peanut butter ... can you say "snap" off in your post hole ?? ... please don't rush into this operation haphazardly

You can find 360 Brass 6/32 threaded rods through Grainger (Rockwell B ~ 80 max). Trying to find a source for 440C stainless 6/32 threaded rod (440C Rockwell B > 100; Rockwell C ~ 54 to 59 max).

Grainger does have 316 stainless 6/32 threaded rods (Rockwell B ~ 80 to 95 max). 18/8 is considered 304 grade stainless (Rockwell B ~ 92 max). (http://www.worldstainless.org/Files...e_datasheet_-_all_datasheets_rev_Aug_2013.pdf)

Arnold M. · Jul 17, 2018

Creamtone seems to offer a nice package for this mod ... 1-1/2" nickle plated brass threaded post, as per original Factory spec, #35 drill bit (.110") and vintage correct sized thumb wheels .. I personally would only do it with a proper drill press to ensure a straight correct angle hole

kojack19 · Oct 9, 2019

Bringing this old thread back to life. I have a 96 56 reissue and my bridge and posts are now leaning forward i think it is just time and stress over 23 years. I was going to replace the bridge posts and keep my bridge. Did you all add a 2nd set of thumbwheels and put one down to the body to increase the strength as well?

Any other info would be appreciated-this is my number one so am trying to be as cautious and careful here as I love the tone and do not want it to get brighter or change in any way.

Thanks all.

Keefoman · Oct 9, 2019

With stainless steel studs, you won't need extra thumbwheels. If you don't want tonal change, just buy original brass studs.

kojack19 · Oct 9, 2019

Keefoman said:
With stainless steel studs, you won't need extra thumbwheels. If you don't want tonal change, just buy original brass studs.

Great. Thanks for the direction-really appreciate it.

Thanks Mapleflame!!

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