Recent content by poor man's burst

A stated by the OP, the bridge and stop tailpiece have been changed for chrome plated. As well as the pickguard bracket apparently. But the tuners and pickups screws are gold plated.

If you don't have the experience and don't feel confortable working on an instrument you value, ask someone who is. That's what luthiers and guitar techs are payed for.

A '54 re-issue would have no maple top as well as an Alnico "stapple" pickup in the neck position. The routing is deeper than the routing for a P-90. And as stated by Dwagar, LE would br stamped on the back of the peghead. On the picture, the pickup routings don't look to have been modified...

At least 2 pots are soldered to the print. You need to remove the knobs and the outside nuts from the pots to pull the print out with the pots. There may be a second nut on each pot, inside the cavity, between the shielding can and the wood, holding the pots to the can. In this case, you need to...

No. At least to me.

It will probably stop sounding at all. Fantastic or not fantastic.

If the plates are turning red, you're looking for trouble.

As of me, I think I see the pancake veneer showing through the finish on pic #6, and the brown stuff in the pickup cavity on pics #3 and #4 is not mahogany but rubbing compound.

No.

Reverb tanks have a code stamped on them, which gives all the tank's specs (number of springs, decay length, transducers impedance, grounding schematic, etc...). It looks like 9AB2C1B. Letters and numbers change according to specs. AFAIK, all the reverb tank brands (Accutronic, Mojo, Beltone)...

If the number has been stamped in the wood before the finish has been sprayed on, there is no way you can steam the number without removing the finish. That's the reason why I asked if you intended to refinish the guitar. As of filling the number, first, you would have to match the exact color...

Do you intend to have the back of the headstock refinished, the neck, the whole guitar?

They are not. There are a lot of variations, not only in size, number of springs and decay length, but more important, transducers impedance and grounding, which should match the send and recovery circuit impedance.

I cannot advise strongly enough against any type of wax on guitar finish, specially vintage. The remedy for dirt, sweat, grease, beer or whatever which has settled in the finish is removing it, not adding a shiny layer of another material, which is likely to turn any futur repair, (gluing or...

Chances to get the same color as the yellowed finish with any kind of stain is close to zero, let alone being even, specially if you are inexperienced. IMO the only way to go is cutting a hole the same shape of the sticker in a piece of cardboard, stick it with double sided tape on the guitar...