Any Interest if i do a step buy step thread of my 2014 LP Melodymaker Nitro Refin?

Just Throwing it out there as they are long posts. My Studio Refin to a burst had some nice comments and such. Wondering if you guys would be interested?

Yes

Yeah, sure, go for it. If it sucks, I won't read it.

Seriously though, I like to see these kinds of threads. Looking forward to it.

As an “fng” I would follow that one.

Yessr. Go for it. :salude

Ok then I’ll keep it here to be simple. STBY for the wrote up. I’ll post pics too.

I'm in too.

2014 LP Melodymaker Nitro Refin

OK, Here Goes.

My Buddy picked up this guitar at Bestbuy for $300. I was the floor model and was a mess. I guess in 2014 the made these as USA made bare guitars. And Bare they are. Literally one coat of flat grey. But, like any reg Gib, it has P90s ( not 100s) and the Circuitboard / quick connect type connectors. You can assemble this perfectly in 3 min.. Kinda cool, but you know us guys... thinks theres tone n solder...

Since I asked him if i could turn it into a historic finish as i had finished my Studio with incredible results, he said, go Nuts..

Now stripping the Studio required lots of stripper as it was covered in nicotine and Gloss. Tis this was stripped with acetone in 30 min. The big take away here is this. GO SLOW AROUND THE HEADSTOCK!!
You NEED to leave the mat black and Gold dry transfer decals that say Gibson and LP..

The Left is the stock mat, and the right is after one Control coat ( thin clear coating ) of nitro.



He's what it looked like Underneath. All in all a nice plain top. The back is a little questionable but unique..

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Note the 1 piece MAPLE neck and 3 piece back. The only diff here between a Studio is a 1/2 Thick and a body cutaway. Its like a LITE.


So here are the steps I use that Gibson does too:

Since this guitar has a lot of maple, only the backside needed wood filler. By wood filler i mean a Solvent based, Pro Non Grain Raising filler. Thats the most important part with Mahogany. The reason those new Faded or raw series $800-1000 Gibson have grain you can feel vs the flat mirror like surface is the absence of this step.

Anyway, i won't get into finishing the wood as Gibson did that.

I spray a light gloss coat of clear Nitro.

Then i use Analine dye in powder and make a stain with Methly Alcohol.

That get mixed into Nitro to tint.

Lots of masking to cheat a binding. I use the raw maple.

Here you can see the first coat of amber and the first and maybe final burst coat.

Since i have Black plastics to work with, Ill be shooting for a yellowish guitar...

More next post.



Note the Run.. No biggie... just a little wet sand and repeat. You CANT sand a burst though...ask me how i know...

The analine/methyl?

What are you using proportion wise and which methyl percentage? --

EDIT -- The reason I'm asking is because I serioulsy fucked up a finish not knowing the mix. Clouded bad and got worse from there....

SpencerD said:

The analine/methyl?

What are you using proportion wise and which methyl percentage? --

EDIT -- The reason I'm asking is because I serioulsy fucked up a finish not knowing the mix. Clouded bad and got worse from there....

Click to expand...

Hmmm.. clouding and that stage?

I eyeball all my stains. I take a glass bottle put in some Methl Alcohol and add powders to get a desired colour depthness.

I make it pretty dark. Dark enough to match the pre mixed stuff.

Then i normaly shoot Laquer 3:1. If I’m adding colour to I‘lp go 3: .5 : .5 if that makes sense as the addition if stain also acts as a thinner.

Clouding or Blushing is when the mixture is too thin or the relive humidity is too high and the moister traps air bubbles, making it look cloudy.

Ill post a pic later on here of a coat I tried when cloudy. Mass blushing. I was rushing.

Mind you, I’ve found 2 solutions to get rid of it with no retarder.

1. Flight poison with poison. Simply wait for good conditions and spray another coat.

2. Right after you see the blushing, wipe it extremely lightly with a thinner soaked rag. Do Not stop or do it more than twice. The thinner will realize the bubbles.

Both steps require a light sand and extra coat.

Lastly, Do NOT Wipe/ SAND a burst Coat. Use method 1.

Hope me that helps.



Hows that for blushing. Easy fix. One more spray with better Environmental conditions and thicker coat.

Got it.

Thanks.

Just a Little update. Got all the Lacquer sprayed and finished level wet sanding with 800-1200-1500. Now It will sit for 2 weeks before it has the buffer. Just to make sure the finish is hard enough to accept the heat of the buffer. If you do it too soon, you risk literally pulling off the finish.... No Bueno


I have to say, the only difference between this one and the other LPs sitting on my rack is 3/4less Mahogany, a belly cut, and a 4 piece back...

Looking good so far. I can’t wait to see what it looks like buffed up with the hardware and strings back on it. I do a lot of my own repairs and I spray painted an Ibanez bass that turned out really nice but this level finishing is beyond me. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while you work.

Anytime. I only work with Lacquer because it’s so forgiving and that’s what’s on Gibbys. The finish is really important to me bonding with a guitar. I want it to age, to fade over time. Can’t get in Poly.

A pro pedestal buffer is a must. You can make them for a small amount $$