I've gotten myself a carcass (yes, you can take that literally) of a Les Paul model, which I'd like to convert into a subtle burst. But the original top is severely damaged, with an overzealous sanding near the switch, and two ugly dowelled holes for the tailpiece (which was drilled in the wrong location). So a veneer needs to be added to hide those imperfections. I've already veneered a flat surface in the past with contact adhesive and a roller, and that worked out great, but this is going to be a whole different thing, with the curves in both the X & Y axis, a center-seam that needs to stay closed and centered,...
Anyone here who has already tackled this, and cares to help me out with some tips & tricks? Materials & procedures, do's and don'ts... I've already indulged myself in a thorough reading of the veneering-pages of joewoodworker.com, but since this is especially about a Les Paul, I thought I'd better ask it here. Especially tips on how to keep the center-seam closed (veneer tape I assume?), how to get the veneer to follow the curves without cracking/splintering and what glue to use when wanting to use stains.
The situation as it currently is (hidden behind a link, because it's really bad)... Still need to remove the (nitrocellulose) gold finish, and the polyurethane undercoat.
Anyone here who has already tackled this, and cares to help me out with some tips & tricks? Materials & procedures, do's and don'ts... I've already indulged myself in a thorough reading of the veneering-pages of joewoodworker.com, but since this is especially about a Les Paul, I thought I'd better ask it here. Especially tips on how to keep the center-seam closed (veneer tape I assume?), how to get the veneer to follow the curves without cracking/splintering and what glue to use when wanting to use stains.
The situation as it currently is (hidden behind a link, because it's really bad)... Still need to remove the (nitrocellulose) gold finish, and the polyurethane undercoat.
