Setup question - dead G string

[mjcurtis]

I bought an old Les Paul (Professional model) and would like some help with a setup problem. The plain G string played open sounds very dead (it is a new string). I think that the nut slot is cut too wide, and the bridge saddle may be a bit loose, but also feel that there is not enough down pressure at the headstock and from the tailpiece. So I may try doctoring the nut, putting some nail polish on the saddle, lowering the tailpiece, but I can't change the tension at the headstock (unless I try a wound G string?). Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start the trial and error. Thank you,
Mike

 

[tom3k]

Doubt it's downward tension at the nut, either, but I try to get a few extra winds around the peg on the D & G, just to be on the safe side.

 

[Jaloparu]

Same problem with G string

I have just recently developed the same problem. My G string is dead when played open. if I fret the first fret is sounds fine.
I have noticed that my bridge seems to be concave abit and the G saddle is lower than the outside E's.
Raising the bridge seems to slightly help, but it makes the action too high. I need Dans help too.

 

[brianf]

Order a new bridge from Stu Mac. They are very inexpensive.

brianf

 

[Jaloparu]

I have considered a new bridge, but this bridge came on this guitar this way. When I asked an Authorized Gibson repair shop about this , I was told that they could bend the bridge back to the correct radius? I am not sure if this will work or if I even want to try having this done. I have not seen anything on this subject here. I do know that all the strings do not clear the bridge no matter how high the tailpiece is set. But it seems to be the only logical place to look for the dead G string. if not the nut slot.

 

[Wilko]

Sounds to me like the nut slot. the G-string has enough side pull to not be problem if it's too wide. What the problem would be is the shape of the slot being off-angle causing the string to contack the nut away from the leading edge and not have enough pressure at the leading edge. You can file the tuner side of the slot down some so that the string is contacting only at the edge right against the fingerboard, that oughta fix it.

 

[tom3k]

Jaloparu -

My Custom had a concave bridge when I bought it, too - mine was more of a flat radius, so not quite as bad as yours from the sound of it. As a short-term measure (I was looking for aged gold parts to re-do the chrome hardware all around), I bought a cheap ABR1-type copy bridge from GC for $15 and slapped it on there. Between the proper radius and the sharper break possible at the bridge (the ABR1 was narrower and the saddles higher than the '70 TOM's) it was a big improvement. So much so that I haven't bothered to look for a 'real' replacement yet. Just put that ol' bent bridge in a box somewhere in case somebody wants all the stock parts someday.

 

[Bluejazz]

You can place the end of a small flatpoint screw driver onto the G string at the nut to steady it and then test the string's clarity. If its an improvement then its a problem with the nut. If not then it's the bridge.

 

[Dan Erlewine]

Sounds like a nut

Nut problem. Could be the saddle(s) need cleaning and shaing too (just like the too-deep nut slots).

I have written and videoed tons on this subject.

I have bent many bridges back into shape - ABR-1's, that is. What bridge is on your guitar?

You can over-bend a bridge too, of course, and cracks will appear through the teensy adj. screw holes in the top of the bridge casting on the D- and G- strings.

Block up the bridge on each end (on a solid flat surface) and squeeze the center down with a clamp. No gaurantees, but it often works well. Then, if you don't crank the stop-bar tailpiece WAY too low, the bridge may serve for quite sometime.

I generally don't disagree with GLX7, but I do on this one.

thanks, Dan

 

[Dan Erlewine]

bent bridges

GLX: It's only a bridge. Yes, "metal fatigue" would be an issue, but it's only a bridge. If it doesn't work, or last, you get a new one. I am not a big fan of jamming the stop-bar against the top, and if you don't do that (often) you may not have a "collapsed-bridge." I have re-bent them, followed the job, and they work (if the stop-bar is not bottomed-out).

Who says that is the way it is supposed to be (stop-bar all the way down?).

thanks, Guild, I like jamming with you!

duke of erle

 

[Jaloparu]

Bending the bridge

The bridge in question is a Nashville. I did take it off and I put it in a small vise with a piece of round stock in the center. It really would not bend much, but it is a bit straighter than before.
My stopbar is very high on the guitar, I almost wonder if its too high. it needs to be very high to compensate for the concave bridge.

 

[JJam66]

You can place the end of a small flatpoint screw driver onto the G string at the nut to steady it and then test the string's clarity. If its an improvement then its a problem with the nut. If not then it's the bridge.

Brilliant! Okay…

 

[Offshore Angler]

is it rattling, sitar sounding, buzzing? Being a little more specific can help diagnose it.

Do the following:

1)Tune to pitch
2)Check relief, set it to where you can just barely see it moving when simultaneously fretting the 1st and 22nd frets. If its OK then,
3) While bending the neck forward see if the note cleans up. You may need to fix the nut or replace the bridge. I'd bet on the bridge being collapsed but it could be the nut.

If the problem showed up after a string change I'd replace the string too. Sometimes you just get dead one. It's rare, but it happens. Especially nowadays with all the Chinese fakes around.

All that said, the LP Professional model is a pretty odd duck with the low impedance pickups and you might need the special transformer cord for it.

Chuck

 

[metropolis]

It's a 24 year old thread...