toxpert
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2005
- Messages
- 3,068
I received the kit last week and had a chance to start working on it over the weekend.
I ended up choosing the Mission kit after reading many reviews and looking at the quality of the chassis. In particular, I really like the use of the chassis mounted PEM nuts as opposed to nuts and star washers.
The first step was to lay out everything and check the parts inventory:
Bruce provides NOS rectifier and 12AX7 tubes:
I then double checked that the components matched values (all did)..and re-organize for easy access during the build:
I ordered additional green cloth-covered wire for heater wiring...and installed the sockets and transformers:
and wired up the rectifier socket:
I like to tin the eyelets prior to soldering:
Wiring the 'hidden' wiring on the back side came first. The wiring scheme uses a bit non-traditional colors which are coded for function:
Then mounting the components..triple checking everything...then soldering:
I used the 'Fender' type technique of soldering from the back ...to create the neat solder buttons on the top of the eyelet board:
Break time for a bit and then start to install the board into the chassis....
I ended up choosing the Mission kit after reading many reviews and looking at the quality of the chassis. In particular, I really like the use of the chassis mounted PEM nuts as opposed to nuts and star washers.
The first step was to lay out everything and check the parts inventory:
Bruce provides NOS rectifier and 12AX7 tubes:
I then double checked that the components matched values (all did)..and re-organize for easy access during the build:
I ordered additional green cloth-covered wire for heater wiring...and installed the sockets and transformers:
and wired up the rectifier socket:
I like to tin the eyelets prior to soldering:
Wiring the 'hidden' wiring on the back side came first. The wiring scheme uses a bit non-traditional colors which are coded for function:
Then mounting the components..triple checking everything...then soldering:
I used the 'Fender' type technique of soldering from the back ...to create the neat solder buttons on the top of the eyelet board:
Break time for a bit and then start to install the board into the chassis....