Or it could be a 71/72 54/58 goldtop reissue with an added stop-tail? Looks like the top carve is more of the early 70s convexed shape from looking at that pic.
Anyway to find out if there is flame underneath the gold top?
- Thread starter Snappy Joe
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Or it could be a 71/72 54/58 goldtop reissue with an added stop-tail? Looks like the top carve is more of the early 70s convexed shape from looking at that pic.
Monroe
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The reason people added the stop tail was so they could use a tune-a-matic.
That seems strange with two TPs. I mean... uh....
That seems strange with two TPs. I mean... uh....
Tom Wittrock
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Especially using a lightning bolt bridge at an angle. :wah
Ed Driscoll
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The belt-and-suspenders Les Paul!
Snappy Joe
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Sorry guys, to avoid confusion I should have elaborated on my LP. Well the odd combination of the stop tail w. the wrap around is a result of replacing the ABR w. a Wrap around when I was young and crazy in 1977.
The LP is definitely an early 68 w. a long tenon neck joint. It's a 3,5 Kg light weight, super twangy, for ever sustainer.
Back then in 1977 I was crazy about a wrap around as I believed that it would yield even more sustain. I played it as a wrap around w. the stop tail piece off for a couple of years until I decided to reinstall the stop tail piece again. I just couldn't stand looking at the two holes.
Fortunately I never trusted anyone to reinstall and refinish this area. Gold top color is probably the toughest one to reproduce or repair. But then I discovered that this odd combination sounded extremely nice, in fact a lot better than w. the wrap around alone and better than w. the ABR.
So come I decided to leave it w. all its' odd history alone. Sounds great and is probably very unique.
BTW, I tried the trick w. the white paper shown in the video a few posts above but could figure out anything except of occasional wishfull halluzination. Anybody else had success w. the white paper method?
The LP is definitely an early 68 w. a long tenon neck joint. It's a 3,5 Kg light weight, super twangy, for ever sustainer.
Back then in 1977 I was crazy about a wrap around as I believed that it would yield even more sustain. I played it as a wrap around w. the stop tail piece off for a couple of years until I decided to reinstall the stop tail piece again. I just couldn't stand looking at the two holes.
Fortunately I never trusted anyone to reinstall and refinish this area. Gold top color is probably the toughest one to reproduce or repair. But then I discovered that this odd combination sounded extremely nice, in fact a lot better than w. the wrap around alone and better than w. the ABR.
So come I decided to leave it w. all its' odd history alone. Sounds great and is probably very unique.
BTW, I tried the trick w. the white paper shown in the video a few posts above but could figure out anything except of occasional wishfull halluzination. Anybody else had success w. the white paper method?
Snappy Joe
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Wow!!! I just tried the LED thing w. a LED Torch. I could see a spectacular striped upper half of the top, all without the white paper. Just from viewing the top directly. I could also see that it is a center seam. Unfortunately I couldn'tz see a thing on the lower half. Maybe I just didn't get the right angle. I tried to take photographs but it failed.
Not sure what it would look like w. two extremely different halfs of the top
Not sure what it would look like w. two extremely different halfs of the top
Snappy Joe
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I spent the last days with scanning my LP w. the LED torch. The lower half of the LP has some stripes too, although at a lesser degree. Gives me a lot of head ache wether or not to convert to a burst. I'm almost there but still highly hesitant. What do you guys think about converting? I'm a purist for 40 + years but man that top rox.
moonweasel
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Sorry Joe! I'm the wrong person to ask. I would not mess with the finish.
If you have a hunger for a flame top, there are about a million 1959 Custom Shop Reissues out there used now. Can be had for reasonable prices used (new ones' price is laughable).
Best of luck!
MW
Snappy Joe
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Yes, I know what you're saying. I'm fully aware of the sacrige thing. Well, I'm not just crazy about a burst. In fact I love the lesser main stream gold top, but this PL sounds exceptionally good out of its' wood and it's perfect for me. No burst would do the same thing for me like this one would. Tough decision as I own it since 38 years. It's a shame they did hide its' exceptionl top. maybe it had to be everything else except of burst for the reaseon bursts didn't sell. Not sure what was going on in their mind.
If it's a LSLP then they weren't officially doing Bursts at that time, just 2 P-90 GT's, and 2 Humbucking Customs (Black). As I understand they did do some special orders which might have been Bursts (not sure!)?
So, your problem IMO are the two sets of stud holes, so I'd either plug the bridge holes and install a ABR-1 and use the TP, or, plug the TP holes and use a Wrap Tail. You might get away with the plug and ABR-1 and TP with a little touchup, but if you're going to plug the TP's studs then you'll need to refinish most likely.
Depending on how the plugs look will point you at a transparent or opaque finish I'd guess?
Or, leave it be? :##!
Good luck...
So, your problem IMO are the two sets of stud holes, so I'd either plug the bridge holes and install a ABR-1 and use the TP, or, plug the TP holes and use a Wrap Tail. You might get away with the plug and ABR-1 and TP with a little touchup, but if you're going to plug the TP's studs then you'll need to refinish most likely.
Depending on how the plugs look will point you at a transparent or opaque finish I'd guess?
Or, leave it be? :##!
Good luck...
Snappy Joe
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Years ago I was thinking about getting the ABR back, but first of all, I don't trust anybody to get the touch up right as it has it's unique greened gold finish. Then I realised that this odd combination was squeezing the best sound out the guitar. Meanwhile I have no problem, because it's part of my own silly history, so to speak.
A refin job is totally out of question because the way it appears w. all its' authentic marks should be preserved. I was thinking about keeping them even if I'd decide on a burst convert. Kind of masking some of the more sever scars.
Anyway, if I had to decide what to do, it should bei either a burst convert or leaving it as is.
BTW, I took off the pickguard for the first time since 30 years just 2 days ago. It's interesting to see the grade of greenish it had become compared to the gold underneath. When I bought it in 1978/79 there was no difference at all.
What is a LSLP by the way?
A refin job is totally out of question because the way it appears w. all its' authentic marks should be preserved. I was thinking about keeping them even if I'd decide on a burst convert. Kind of masking some of the more sever scars.
Anyway, if I had to decide what to do, it should bei either a burst convert or leaving it as is.
BTW, I took off the pickguard for the first time since 30 years just 2 days ago. It's interesting to see the grade of greenish it had become compared to the gold underneath. When I bought it in 1978/79 there was no difference at all.
What is a LSLP by the way?
moonweasel
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LSLP is an acronym I came up with for my website because typing latesixtieslespaul is a nightmare. hahaha
DJD100 is correct, a sunburst or two (literally could have been that few) did come out of the factory. The most likely to be original one is the Vintage Burst w/factory humbuckers "JapanBurst" one shown on the link below. Goldtops with black plastic and humbuckers most likely existed too, but I have yet to confirm them yet.
http://www.latesixtieslespauls.com/article_bucker.asp
Kris Ford
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I still swear that the Japan burst is an obvious refin, factory HB routes, yes, but as said, the top is WAY to shiny and is totally not congruent with the rashed up and seriously worn back and neck..headstock shows rounded edges that a refin would too..plus the color/spray pattern doesn't look like it was done by Gibson.
But what we don't know is if what refinished from a factory sunburst, or if someone found a way to strip the pickup routes clean..:hmm
Snappy Joe
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LSLP, very cool page. Thanx for the pointer. I'll be reading it within the next hours and days.
Do you have the first three digits of the serial number? Or a pic or two of the guitar to see it in its entire condition? If it has worked for you the last 40-ish years I would leave it as is. Like Moon said there are a million R9s or R8s and R60s out there.
moonweasel
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I feel the same way about the shiney-ness, I have no idea though how they would get Gold paint out of the pickup cavities so cleanly. It is more likely that it was a GT with buckers and black plastic and a dark back, but who knows?
How fun with it! I just renewed the hosting and domain name the other day. She'll be going for another year still.
Snappy Joe
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First digits are 537XXX
I have not seen a R9-60 yet that had the top and laquer right. The carved top is a mimic but not correct as I compare it to my 68. And thelaquer is way to fatty applied and leaves visible bumps on the surface. That really bothers me. My friend's old 80ies Tokai is way better performed as for the carved top and surface. Also the Reissues and CS LPauls are way over my budget. There are only a few that I think look nice. I live in a big city that has some mega stores. Out of 10 top notch LP I only liked two. Sorry for the dirt on the lens.
Snappy Joe
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Obviously the amber switch tip is not original. Still have the original tip and original ABR inkl. the plastic saddles. The truss rod cover is from 1960. Ah, and one more silly mod I did back in 77: For that older 50ies look I pulled the reflectors out of the knobs and cut off one ring from the Kluson buttons. Yeah, my infection started in 1973 and could only be partly cured
Snappy Joe
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Curly curves beneath the gold. It's very hard to catch the whole beauty as I can see it live.
moonweasel
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LOVE that guitar.
I don't see flame coming through the paint on the treble side. VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY few of these have decent flame on both sides. KILLER guitar.
I don't see flame coming through the paint on the treble side. VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY few of these have decent flame on both sides. KILLER guitar.