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No-Wire ABR-1 Intonation Adjustment Issue - Saddles Lifting Up!

StupidFingers

New member
Joined
May 8, 2020
Messages
1
Hi,

First, I apologize if this question has been asked elsewhere. After searching extensively and in vain, I am posting it...

I recently purchased an R9, which has a non-wire ABR-1 bridge. After changing strings for the first time, I thought I'd check the intonation. A couple of strings were off a bit, so I adjusted them...and found that as I turned the adjustment screw, the saddle would lift up. So, I did a little research and found a site that recommended de-tuning a string before adjusting the intonation for a non-wire ABR-1. So I did, even moving the string off the saddle. Even then, the saddle would lift. So, I used the plastic butt end of the screwdriver to tap the saddle back into place. After adjusting a couple of strings, I looked down the line of adjustment screws from the side, and can see that they aren't perfectly aligned. A bit crooked.

Does anyone out there have some recommendations for intonating a non-wire ABR-1 bridge? Is there a process step I'm missing? How do I prevent the saddles from lifting up? If they come up, how do I get them back down? So many questions...

Thanks,
Stupidfingers
 

rick c

Active member
Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
282
Weird. The saddles should simply move forwards and backwards. If they move in the vertical plane (guitar on it's back) then this suggests that the adjuster screws are bent. I could imagine one being a problem but multiple bent screws doesn't make any sense. When you state that the screws are not aligned, you mean that there are not equal spaces between the screws? I have to ask; are you sure you have a real R9? Please post pics of the bridge.
 

Don

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Messages
5,732
Some of the saddles in the no-wire ABR-1 on my ES-335 do the same thing. I think it's due to the fit between the screws and the holes in the bridge being tight to give them a snap in fit. They try to walk out when the screw is turned.

I do the same as the OP and tap them back down with the plastic handle of a screwdriver.

I just realized that I said the same thing in the thread from 2018 that rick c linked!
 

Minibucker

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2003
Messages
6,372
Also it can depend on where the hole is drilled in the saddle. In the past I had to buy two sets of Gibson Historic Replacement saddles to find four that were drilled consistently enough to sit flush in their channels in the bridge body.
 

Arnold M.

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2018
Messages
296
Hi,

First, I apologize if this question has been asked elsewhere. After searching extensively and in vain, I am posting it...

I recently purchased an R9, which has a non-wire ABR-1 bridge. After changing strings for the first time, I thought I'd check the intonation. A couple of strings were off a bit, so I adjusted them...and found that as I turned the adjustment screw, the saddle would lift up. So, I did a little research and found a site that recommended de-tuning a string before adjusting the intonation for a non-wire ABR-1. So I did, even moving the string off the saddle. Even then, the saddle would lift. So, I used the plastic butt end of the screwdriver to tap the saddle back into place. After adjusting a couple of strings, I looked down the line of adjustment screws from the side, and can see that they aren't perfectly aligned. A bit crooked.

Does anyone out there have some recommendations for intonating a non-wire ABR-1 bridge? Is there a process step I'm missing? How do I prevent the saddles from lifting up? If they come up, how do I get them back down? So many questions...

Thanks,
Stupidfingers

the saddles lift up because the holes are not drilled at the proper angles .. it's a hastily assembled product .. and a casting no less ... another strike .. I bought a few of the Gibson Historic Spec bridges at one time and they were all basically wonky, each one had a few issues .. go aftermarket dude ... I think you will get a much better product .. I use a Callaham but I'm pretty sure the others Pigtail, Faber etc. etc. would be good
 

Coda

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
115
Stupidfingers: If you flick through the pages of this "Tech Area" you will see that several problems with ABR-1 bridges are often reported; collapse in the middle, annoying buzzes and rattles, saddle screw issues etc. If you try out the suggestions already posted you may be lucky and get the bridge working ok for you. If not then a replacement is your next option. Another couple of brands in addition to this already mentioned are ABM (Germany brass, steel and aluminium) and Tone Pros. Let us know how you get on.
 

ultrataco

New member
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Messages
2
I had that problem too with my R9 but I actually somehow snapped one of the adjustment screws in half. At that point I gave up and ordered a Faber ABRH bridge. I don't have it yet so can't comment on it, but I believe the screws are locked on it so won't have this issue. Whether it sounds "better" or not, I don't really care. I just hope it doesn't sound too different or worse. I was happy with the sound stock.
 
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