• Guys, we've spent considerable money converting the Les Paul Forum to this new XenForo platform, and we have ongoing monthly operating expenses. THE "DONATIONS" TAB IS NOW WORKING, AND WE WOULD APPRECIATE ANY DONATIONS YOU CAN MAKE TO KEEP THE LES PAUL FORUM GOING! Thank you!

Bavarian Makeover II 1956 Historic Reissue by jaegerguitars

djcmusician

Active member
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
263
I hade my Historic R8 refretted with Jescar 57110 SS wire (the horror). Love it.
 

thin sissy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
2,691
FWIW, I played my 57 Jr with the tiny original frets for years, and I loved the guitar.

But when I finally refretted it with large frets, I loved it even more! These days I also have a 55 GT with large frets, and it's wonderful. So IMHO you made a good choice on that fretwire.

PS: there's still a certain charm to the vintage banjo wire, but I wouldn't want to go back :)
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
...like a vintage neck: without the sheath, a vintage-correct trussrod made out of cold-rolled steel, and a perfectly hide-glued Brazilian Rosewood fretboard:

oq9USOp.jpg


...frets are flawless - no dressing necessary...

2xsM9Ue.jpg



Meanwhile work on the body binding has moved forward, as well.


Below you can see all about the pinkish factory binding from ´96 being replaced with historically correct NOS Royalite binding:

...the considerable contrast between the two binding materials:

O7p01Ni.jpg


...the old binding is removed...

1pDyqBx.jpg


...to get a perfect channel for the NOS Royalite...

5NcbA2u.jpg


...which is now applied to the body!

4tnnRku.jpg


The egg-shell color of the NOS Royalite is suited best to the ambering of the instrument, which is one of the most important aspects of the vintage look!

pC9jzbp.jpg


...and as the Grande Finale for today a word from the mentor about how the neck is fitted into the body in the course of a neck reset:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fFgCMbtM7vg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

...of course, this is just a demonstration of how well the neck fits into the body mortice by itself, without any glue. For the actual fitting hot hide glue is used!
 
Last edited:

KR1

Active member
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Messages
266
It all looks grand but the neck re-set link ist zerbrochen (knackered).
 
Last edited:

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
I fixed the video link, moving to youtube. I hope that everyone is able to watch the video now. Cheers :salude
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
This came in right after my last posting...

There has been another wedding :wow:wow:wow

mTr4Njx.jpg


Neck glued in with hot hide glue - what a glorious day!

The connection between the neck and the body is the most important - the all-deciding and crucial - connection in a guitar. If the neck and body are perfectly glued (or screwed, if that is your preference...) together, the instrument begins to radiate, to blossom, to shine, and shimmer. This is the key to the sound of a 'Burst and the 50's tone. It is more important than any other measures to enhance an instrument's tone put together. Imagine the result, if both a neck reset and the other measures are taken!
 
Last edited:

fernieite

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
609
Man, this thing is looking great!

Btw, what are those metallic circular pieces in the neck joint and bridge pu routing? Do all Historics have them?
 

Cream Fan

Active member
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
2,695
I absolutely LOVE 6100! I've been playing on those frets for over thirty years. Bob Gjika, the luthier/amp designer, refretted my '61 SG/Les Paul back in '86 and they are still going strong. That said, the wire back then was way harder than the fretwire offered today. I think they realized that making it slightly softer would result in more sales of fretwire. Who knows. But I recently had Bob refret my Historic Makeover '03 R9 with Jescar stainless and, boy, was it worth it. Here's a video that shows the results:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J3E1mr2L2Us" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
Your feedback is, as always, invaluable.

Now, I need it again: I am contemplating replacing the Bigsby with a stoptail piece (many of you will rejoice...:applaude)

Which tailpiece should I use as a replacement? I got rid of the stock tailpiece, when the Bigsby was installed, so the option of simply using that one again, is gone.

Many thanks for your input :salude
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
The neck reset has been completed to perfection!

2CiktGb.jpg


Now the binding is being trimmed...

poprrEV.jpg


...and the recarve of the top is going to be done this weekend!

Lkc3vma.jpg
 
Last edited:

thin sissy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
2,691
I absolutely LOVE 6100! I've been playing on those frets for over thirty years. Bob Gjika, the luthier/amp designer, refretted my '61 SG/Les Paul back in '86 and they are still going strong. That said, the wire back then was way harder than the fretwire offered today. I think they realized that making it slightly softer would result in more sales of fretwire. Who knows. But I recently had Bob refret my Historic Makeover '03 R9 with Jescar stainless and, boy, was it worth it. Here's a video that shows the results:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J3E1mr2L2Us" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Cool video Cream Fan, I'm a SS fret convert as well, nothing beats it IMHO :)

ununtrium: Interesting updates, keep them coming! I thought the Bigsby was cool as hell, but if you want to try the stoptail (it seems you do), then why not? The Bigsby can be added later if you want to :salude
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
the maple top has been recarved...

TGEzkwM.jpg


SOmZX0e.jpg


Q2fALdY.jpg


CIYBQtE.jpg


MIgz8P4.jpg


...now we have authentic vintage topcarve contours with a prominent recurve and a deep dish!
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
Florian carves by hand; he has extensive knowledge of the top carve of 50's Les Pauls and uses the data he has accumulated over decades of measuring vintage instruments as a point of reference. He lays out all the pertinent details in his description of his makeover packages on his website.

How was this done?
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
Many thanks!
I still think that a Bigsby is cool as hell, too. :salude

However, when learning that there was a kit that let you install a Bigsby on a Les Paul without drilling holes into the top, I was a bit miffed. I think the kit is called "Vibramate" or something like it, and I would have certainly opted for that instead of committing like I did.

It is not that I regret having had the Bigsby over these last couple of years, but I am glad that I now have the opportunity to get the stoptail back without any trace of the previous modifications to the top.


ununtrium: Interesting updates, keep them coming! I thought the Bigsby was cool as hell, but if you want to try the stoptail (it seems you do), then why not? The Bigsby can be added later if you want to :salude
 

ununtrium

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
150
Now it is time to put the tailpiece in its historically accurate position...

...this is the status quo (which is about to change...):

zlfWAwV.jpg


...on the right you can see the stock insert (short and made of zinc) for the tailpiece studs. On the left is the one Florian is going to put in instead: Vintage-spec steel, made by a trusted blacksmith from Northern Germany which is actually my neck of the woods.

q08nhv0.jpg


...this is the sandwich plug (mahogany/maple) that will remedy the modern positioning of the stud hole...

qyI8Pyj.jpg


aA9FtIL.jpg


...the plug now glued in...

BtgmmSR.jpg


...behold the plug with a talent of not being seen...Florian matched its grain pattern with the top exactly. :wow

XO0JkSh.jpg


...the new hole for the stud insert...

CFxKnDZ.jpg


...the groundwire gets a new access hole and is duly installed once more...

s9iMfaE.jpg


...and here is the finished result: right through the middle between the volume pots...and it is almost parallel to the ABR-1, as well!

PXBf4Nv.jpg


I know that the position varied in the original 50's instruments, but this position makes the most sense to me...and it just looks right!
 
Last edited:

Victory Pete

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Messages
254
Now it is time to put the tailpiece in its historically accurate position...

...this is the status quo (which is about to change...):

zlfWAwV.jpg


...on the right you can see the stock insert (short and made of zinc) for the tailpiece studs. On the left is the one Florian is going to put in instead: Vintage-spec steel, made by a trusted blacksmith from Northern Germany which is actually my neck of the woods.

q08nhv0.jpg


...this is the sandwich plug (mahogany/maple) that will remedy the modern positioning of the stud hole...

qyI8Pyj.jpg


aA9FtIL.jpg


...the plug now glued in...

BtgmmSR.jpg


...behold the plug with a talent of not being seen...Florian matched its grain pattern with the top exactly. :wow

XO0JkSh.jpg


...the new hole for the stud insert...

CFxKnDZ.jpg


...the groundwire gets a new access hole and is duly installed once more...

s9iMfaE.jpg


...and here is the finished result: right through the middle between the volume pots...and it is almost parallel to the ABR-1, as well!

PXBf4Nv.jpg


I know that the position varied in the original 50's instruments, but this position makes the most sense to me...and it just looks right!


Impressive, are you filling the Bigsby holes?
 
Top