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Need an indestructible bridge! Callaham?

Paladin2019

New member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
203
Hello LPF. I need an opinion from the experts.

I have a Tokai LP clone (boo, hiss, etc.) which has gone through 3 bridges in its almost two-decade existence; the stock Gotoh and two tone-pros AVR2's. All of them sagged in the middle, lowering the D and G strings relative to their neighbours. A well-documented problem and I can straighten the bridge out easily enough with a vise, but obviously this only works a couple of times because of metal fatigue.

I don't really know what I'm doing wrong. I use 11-53 strings but the tailpiece isn't ridiculously low, in fact I use Faber TP studs and I use the tallest spacer rings that came with them. I've tried top wrapping but I despise it.

So I'm in the market for a bridge which WILL NOT BEND. Tone and vintage styling be damned, I just need invincibility and I'll take it at any cost. I've narrowed it down to two possibilities. First, the Callaham. Awesome design, and has locking grub screws as a bonus, but expensive. Are they really as sag-proof as they claim? Have any of my fellow serial saggers had success with these? Anything else worth knowing about them?

Second option, the ABM 2500 series, made in Germany. Half the price of the Callaham but same idea (CNC'd from solid metal), no locking screws but I can machine those in myself. They come in a choice of steel or brass bodies, but the brass models are more widely available. How would brass compare to steel in terms of bend-proofing? Anyone have any experience with this brand they can share?

And finally, is there a third option?

Thanks for looking!
 

Arnold M.

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2018
Messages
296
Hello LPF. I need an opinion from the experts.

I have a Tokai LP clone (boo, hiss, etc.) which has gone through 3 bridges in its almost two-decade existence; the stock Gotoh and two tone-pros AVR2's. All of them sagged in the middle, lowering the D and G strings relative to their neighbours. A well-documented problem and I can straighten the bridge out easily enough with a vise, but obviously this only works a couple of times because of metal fatigue.

I don't really know what I'm doing wrong. I use 11-53 strings but the tailpiece isn't ridiculously low, in fact I use Faber TP studs and I use the tallest spacer rings that came with them. I've tried top wrapping but I despise it.

So I'm in the market for a bridge which WILL NOT BEND. Tone and vintage styling be damned, I just need invincibility and I'll take it at any cost. I've narrowed it down to two possibilities. First, the Callaham. Awesome design, and has locking grub screws as a bonus, but expensive. Are they really as sag-proof as they claim? Have any of my fellow serial saggers had success with these? Anything else worth knowing about them?

Second option, the ABM 2500 series, made in Germany. Half the price of the Callaham but same idea (CNC'd from solid metal), no locking screws but I can machine those in myself. They come in a choice of steel or brass bodies, but the brass models are more widely available. How would brass compare to steel in terms of bend-proofing? Anyone have any experience with this brand they can share?

And finally, is there a third option?

Thanks for looking!

I use a Callaham bridge and although I am hardly an expert on metallurgy I would have to say it's pretty much impossible to bend a piece of 3" long machined steel with string pressure... it would probably take 15 tons of pressure to bend a piece of steel that short .. pretty sure that it's not going to bend on you
 

sonar

New member
Joined
Jan 10, 2003
Messages
3,589
There's some Tokai love on the LPF. No need to assume we'll be dismissive.

The Callaham should be a solid choice, although some claim to dislike (an alleged) added brightness to the guitar tone. I have no direct experience, but a couple too many "interwebz" reviews has kind of put me off... and the cost.

3 bridges in nearly two decades reads very unusual. Is there something going on with the posts?
 

Paladin2019

New member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
203
3 bridges in nearly two decades reads very unusual. Is there something going on with the posts?

A little extra brightness wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing on this guitar, but I'm really only concerned with strength/durability at the moment. The Callaham is definitely the front-runner but that price tag is very intimidating.

The posts are dead straight. I've checked the stock metric posts, and the 6-32 ones I put on for the tonepros are fine too. I also do the double thumbwheel trick on each post. No leaning that I can see either. I just have bad luck with soft bridges!
 

Cholo

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2002
Messages
35
I had an original ABR-1 collapse on me this year. Tech told me from now on, be sure to top wrap your strings over the tail piece to relieve the hard pitch stress of the strings pulling down to the tail piece. By top wrapping, it lightens the tension and gives your strings a looser feel to them.

I also purchased a Faber ABR from Germany and am really pleased with its performance. I hear note clarity like never before.

Anyway, I hope it works out for you.
 

Paladin2019

New member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
203
Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to go for a steel ABM 2500 model. It's half the price of the Callaham equivalent.

The ABM doesn't have the tonepros style set screws but for the amount of money I'd be saving I can machine those into the body myself and maybe make a video or step-by-step picture guide to go along with it since not many people seem to have done that sort of thing as a home mod.

I'm not going to go the top-wrap route because it changes the way the guitar feels in ways I don't like. I'm willing to solve this particular problem by throwing money at it!
 
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