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1960 Gibson Melody Maker

Masterworks

New member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Messages
3
I have a 1960 MM that I would like to get a different bridge. For some reason mine has the lightning bolt compensation wrap around, but it's a 1960, with the offset angled posts. I would like to get a new wrap around with adjustable compensation to tweak the intonation. Would I have to also replace the posts? Or can I use the originals with most replacement bridges? I dont want to do any drilling. Thanks
 

deytookerjaabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
1,594
I use locking studs like this so the bridge doesn't sit at a funky angle making for a poorer string break: https://reverb.com/item/1272687-loc...tuds-domed-head-nickel-plated-with-us-threads

plus a compensated wraparound. It's crazy Gibson still makes the tolerances so loose the bridges sit off kilter in the studs.

usfQvbch.jpg
 

Masterworks

New member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Messages
3
I use locking studs like this so the bridge doesn't sit at a funky angle making for a poorer string break: https://reverb.com/item/1272687-loc...tuds-domed-head-nickel-plated-with-us-threads

plus a compensated wraparound. It's crazy Gibson still makes the tolerances so loose the bridges sit off kilter in the studs.

usfQvbch.jpg
Yep I hear ya! My bridge is a compensated lighting bolt (old style) for parallel posts, but I have offset posts, so I have the grub screw screwed way in on bottom post to help lengthen the strings to get the intonation better. But with the offset posts and a lightning bolt, I'm not getting the right kinda relief lol. Might need to try the locking studs u suggested, thanks
 

zombiwoof

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
3,565
I use locking studs like this so the bridge doesn't sit at a funky angle making for a poorer string break: https://reverb.com/item/1272687-loc...tuds-domed-head-nickel-plated-with-us-threads

plus a compensated wraparound. It's crazy Gibson still makes the tolerances so loose the bridges sit off kilter in the studs.

usfQvbch.jpg

There are two types of studs for TP's, vintage spec and modern spec. Modern fits the thicker ears on zinc tailpieces, vintage spec fits the thinner ears on vintage lightweight tailpieces. The problem with Gibson is they are putting vintage spec lightweight TP's with the thinner ears on modern studs, so the TP's lean in between the stud flanges. Just replacing the studs with vintage spec (either steel or plated brass) studs should fix the problem. Gotoh sells them, I think in plated brass, I have RS Steel studs that a vintage type TP fits tightly into, and also they fit tighter into the bushings in the body.
Al
 

deytookerjaabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
1,594
There are two types of studs for TP's, vintage spec and modern spec. Modern fits the thicker ears on zinc tailpieces, vintage spec fits the thinner ears on vintage lightweight tailpieces. The problem with Gibson is they are putting vintage spec lightweight TP's with the thinner ears on modern studs, so the TP's lean in between the stud flanges. Just replacing the studs with vintage spec (either steel or plated brass) studs should fix the problem. Gotoh sells them, I think in plated brass, I have RS Steel studs that a vintage type TP fits tightly into, and also they fit tighter into the bushings in the body.
Al


Yeah, I've never measured it but I can say that my vintage studs with the original compensate for wound G piece still lean and the piece with the studs on my 2017 'bird do the same damn thing and lean! I also had a junior from a few years back...still leaned! What do they say? "Boy, that's not a mistake, that's a feature."
 

Big Al

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Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
14,541
All my original wraptail tailpieces fit tight to their original studs. They don't wobble or slant. I have 6 singlecut Melody Makers with original hardware and the bridges stay put even minus strings.

So many had Badasses installed in 70's, which used large flanged studs I suspect when swapped back to stock bar bridge many used modern studs. Right stud = tight fit. I always get the proper fit new stud bolts to fit any new or alternate bridge and lable and package the original bridge AND stud bolts together for storage.
 

agogetr

Active member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Messages
451
I have a 1960 MM that I would like to get a different bridge. For some reason mine has the lightning bolt compensation wrap around, but it's a 1960, with the offset angled posts. I would like to get a new wrap around with adjustable compensation to tweak the intonation. Would I have to also replace the posts? Or can I use the originals with most replacement bridges? I dont want to do any drilling. Thanks
schaller made a stoptail with adjustable saddles. gold and silver, its pretty chunky but worked well on one of my juniors.
i love melody makers! i have stock ones but really like the grover/badass/humbucker ones that were put together, and they were dirt cheap in the nineties. nice lightweight guitars.
 

zombiwoof

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
3,565
schaller made a stoptail with adjustable saddles. gold and silver, its pretty chunky but worked well on one of my juniors.
i love melody makers! i have stock ones but really like the grover/badass/humbucker ones that were put together, and they were dirt cheap in the nineties. nice lightweight guitars.

I believe that's the Schaller 455, I put one on my Brother's Melody Maker years ago when I was gigging with it and it was a great bridge. It's like a tunematic/TP in one, the TP part slides into the back of the adjustable saddle bridge part. They have another variation where the back TP part had fine-tuners on it, never tried that one. They are pretty heavy but sustain well.
Al
 
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