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Adding a Stoptail to a 1969 335?

mdubya

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Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
1,020
With all due respect, OP said he wants to less string tension.
 

OKGuitar

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Jan 20, 2011
Messages
938
Have you ever experienced that a traptail 335 suffered negative consequences from a properly done stoptail conversion? I.e. a loss in sustain, deadnotes that weren't there before, less character to the sound?
Or did all of the conversions you had done always significantly improved the respective guitars? :salude

Never negative but not always an improvement. I've heard from others who have had a negative experience doing the conversion.
 

Tidepoolbay

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Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
100
I would really not do this. The guitar is in such a fine condition, looks almost mint. And the trapeze really isn't such a bad feature.
I have a 1970 335, and I considered this mod for quite a while. I'm glad I didn't go through with it. There are plenty of threads on various forums, where guys report how the mod changed the guitar for the worse.
And what if you find an earlier 335 at some point with the stop tail already added, and want to sell this one? You'll loose a lot of money by converting it.
It's a beautiful as it is, and I bet it plays and sounds great! Just my 2c...

I agree. The guitar looks mint! Almost as if it were a reissue! Very, very, nice guitar!
 

mdubya

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Mar 31, 2010
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1,020
Hi Chaps,

I picked this one up this week. I think it's 69 based on features. One piece neck, no volute, no "Made in USA", witch hats, no dot over the "i" in Gibson and the one pot I can read with a dental mirror is dated 11th week of 1968.

I have a desire to add a stoptail, as it is a little tight on the tension front, but the guitar is in very very good all original condition, I would say 9/10. This does present a dilemma, as it's just so clean and original. But I do want to keep it and play it.

Will I devalue the guitar greatly if I do this?

Also, where can I find a 68/69 repro chrome stoptail, studs and bushings that I would need to keep the look of the guitar as "period correct"?

Thanks in advance,
Rob.

kfVZQNb.jpg


IVk0XZQ.jpg

Just looking at the photos again, that is such a sweet guitar!

If string tension really is your main concern, and going down in string gauge is no palatable (although round core Pure Nickel would help), I would take it to a very good luthier for set up with the objective of lighter string tension. A stop tail alone won't necessarily fix that concern.
 

Wilko

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Mar 11, 2002
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The original post says "I have a desire to add a stoptail, as it is a little tight on the tension front..."

A stop will give tighter feeling tension.
 

deytookerjaabs

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Nov 6, 2016
Messages
1,592
"Tension" is not an all encompassing term. The different directions of force & distance & action all play a big role on how one perceives tension....they're all tuned to the same pitch.


If a Trapeze 335 had a Tele saddle, when you bend, the string would move around on the saddle because there's no extra downward break force keeping it in place. However, a Tele/Strat saddle doesn't even need a notch because of the strong break. Instead, with a notched ABR saddle and a very shallow break the string leans towards the side of the notch in the saddle during a big bend giving a different feel one may perceive as stiff (all depending on other setup factors). The longer the string length behind the saddle the more or less this effect comes into play. Either way, giving a steeper break angle will increase the downward force on the saddle and as that's increased the tendency of the string to lean when bent is decreased....along with a host of other things like vibration bleed etc.


Again, this is a very common topic for Jazzmaster guys hence the "Buzz Stop" being on the market and it definitely makes a Jazzmaster feel more like a Strat/Tele when bending/vibrato in terms of string action.

I say first experiment with stiffer or looser strings at different gauges to see if you find a happy medium. It could go one way or the other. Then, try that ABR buzz stop type thingy...if you don't like the later there's a good chance you might not even like the guitar after a stop tail is added.
 

garywright

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Joined
Aug 17, 2002
Messages
15,583
The original post says "I have a desire to add a stoptail, as it is a little tight on the tension front..."

A stop will give tighter feeling tension.

exactly ..that is, unless it’s jacked up an inch or two
 

Wilko

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I like that add-on device idea.

(I love my converted '65) A trapeze on a 335 is just wrong.
 

crashbelt

Active member
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Apr 10, 2016
Messages
103
I'd try dropping a string gauge before doing anything radical. I have 11s on my 64 335 and 10s on my new 67 Trini.

Both are fine.
 

Truss Rob

New member
Joined
May 30, 2019
Messages
32
Hi Chaps,

I picked this one up this week. I think it's 69 based on features. One piece neck, no volute, no "Made in USA", witch hats, no dot over the "i" in Gibson and the one pot I can read with a dental mirror is dated 11th week of 1968.

I have a desire to add a stoptail, as it is a little tight on the tension front, but the guitar is in very very good all original condition, I would say 9/10. This does present a dilemma, as it's just so clean and original. But I do want to keep it and play it.

Will I devalue the guitar greatly if I do this?

Also, where can I find a 68/69 repro chrome stoptail, studs and bushings that I would need to keep the look of the guitar as "period correct"?

Thanks in advance,
Rob.

kfVZQNb.jpg


IVk0XZQ.jpg
I really wouldn't touch it at all . Beautiful , beautiful guitar . Best of luck with it. It's a gem. It is vintage . And there is this "given" and "understood " taboo about modding a vintage guitar. I'm sure there are different schools of thought on de-valuing it by adding a stop piece.. but from what I have seen, heard , and owned, you will devalue it. If you want it to hold it's value, and I'm guessing close to $7,000 ( you can pick a reissue up for about $5,800) , I would leave the trapeze. Just a humble dude's opinion .
 

rob livesey

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Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
655
Hi chaps,

Thanks for all the input regarding my guitar, it really is appreciated, and interesting to hear all the differing opinions.

At this moment, I will leave it original and see how I get on with it. I may try some different strings and see if I can get the feel I’m looking for.

Some have mentioned getting a Reissue stoptail 335 to satisfy this urge, well, I already own one, so I don’t need to go there, and I can feel the difference in the two guitars. As for price, I actually could not buy a new Reissue for the price I paid for this one!

Thanks again.
Rob
 

JPP-1

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Jul 11, 2006
Messages
1,336
I have a trap tail 1966 345. No issues with sustain or string tension. On the other hand, Restringing is a royal pita. That said, if I felt I would see a demonstrable improvement in tone sustains etc., I wouldn’t hesitate converting it to a stop tail. I think there is a distinction from adding a stop tail to a 335 to increase playability and what is often egregious hacking of perfectly good P90 Les Paul to burstify it.

As far as value is concerned, what’s a 1969 335 going to be worth? There is nothing more valuable than time and if a stoptail increases the enjoyment you get out of the time you spend with your 335 then I think it would be foolish not to do it.
 

snakecharmer

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Nov 13, 2002
Messages
80
At least you've said you won't make a hasty decision. Now, for the love of gawd, man, leave this magnificent piece alone!

You know its provenance - under a bed for 40 years! It's a stunning beauty and all original (didn't you say that?). It's a holy grail of sorts.

If you have heavier gauge strings than 9's on it, then try 9's. I went through the whole 10's-for-better-tone thing years ago. I've gone back to 9's and now I enjoy playing again!
And if, when all is said and done, this glorious beast doesn't feel right for you sell it to an evil collector and use the $$ to get one that's already buggered up.
 

rob livesey

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
655
At least you've said you won't make a hasty decision. Now, for the love of gawd, man, leave this magnificent piece alone!

You know its provenance - under a bed for 40 years! It's a stunning beauty and all original (didn't you say that?). It's a holy grail of sorts.

If you have heavier gauge strings than 9's on it, then try 9's. I went through the whole 10's-for-better-tone thing years ago. I've gone back to 9's and now I enjoy playing again!
And if, when all is said and done, this glorious beast doesn't feel right for you sell it to an evil collector and use the $$ to get one that's already buggered up.

I normally use D’Addario 10’s on everything, but I have just bought some 9.5’s, which I’m going to string it up with tomorrow. I’ll report back.......
 

rob livesey

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
655
Update.

I strung it up today with 9.5’s instead of my usual 10’s. All is well. That small change in string gauge has made all the difference. They do feel lighter under my fingers but the bends are as manageable on this guitar now as they are on my other guitars.

Another all original 60’s 335 escapes the luthiers knife to live another day.........

Thanks for all the input chaps.

Rob
 
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