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2002 R8 Gibson Custom Les Paul that will not stay in tune no matter what !

El Gringo

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Apr 8, 2015
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5,657
I am at my wits end with my 2002 R8 Gibson Custom Les Paul Quilt top in Darkburst that will not stay in tune no matter what ! So in April I purchased a case Queen that was in a private collection that is a most stunningly beautiful Quilt top in Darkburst that has been nothing short of a disaster in epic proportions for me . First with the squealing Burstbucker 1 & 3 pickups which I replaced with Throbak SLE-101 Plus pickups along with replacing the wiring harness which came with orange drop caps which I replaced with a 50's vintage harness with Bumble Bee caps . Also the guitar has a bad fret on the B note on the A string . I have tried everything that I can think of to try to keep the Les Paul in tune with no success . I have used Big Bends Lube Sauce on the nut . I also believe the Kluson Deluxe plastic tulip tuners are defective as I have to turn them a lot to get them in tune which they DO NOT STAY IN TUNE which I use the BOSS TU-3 Tuner . I believe in between the Kluson Tuners, the plastic nut, and the Gibson ABR- 1 Bridge lies the problem, if I had my druthers I do not want to replace the nut as I fear damaging the finish and from my untrained eye I do not see anything wrong or out of the ordinary . This is not right how a forum sponsor who of course shall remain anonymous for obvious reasons can sell a bum guitar like this to me . I have to say in all honesty the guitar came to me without a scratch or hair out of place . It's like Fender Custom Shops ads for the then new series of NOS guitars -like I went back in time to 2002 in a time machine and purchased this guitar brand new which this guitar is in museum quality shape without a hair out of place except that it is unplayable ! As it stands now if I can't come up with a cure I will have to replace the Klusons with new Klusons with a better ratio than whatever these have and ditto for a new ABR-1 bridge . I played this R8 on Saturday and all I did was tunning . Enough already , on Sunday I played my 2014 R9 and I haven't touched her in months and she played perfectly and stayed in TUNE , just like my Les Paul Custom and the same with my Les Paul Premium Plus top . I have purchased guitars sight unseen or played from Wildwood, Dave's , and The Music Zoo and they were perfect and still are perfect . Not this R8 ! I know my post sounds like a gripe fest but I am at my wits end with this questionable piece of merchandise and BUYER BEWARE , do your homework and due diligence and only buy from reputable shops with proper credentials who are official licensed Gibson dealers and don't make the same mistake I did .
 

El Gringo

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Apr 8, 2015
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I would like to add that so far in parts and service I am at a bit over $1000.00 in pickups , harness and service . The pickups are even with the rings and the guitar does have relief in the neck .
 

Stevedenver

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Jul 17, 2001
Messages
2,565
I too have an 02 R8Ca.
I don't have tuning stability issues.

My nut slots are cut rather sloppily, and a touch wide and deep. I use graphite powder, as a matter of routine.

I use the locking string wrap too, but, I don't think this is critical for stability. Supposedly, fewer post wraps eliminate places for slipping. Short of a vibrato bar, or entirely loosening a string, I think once wrapped tightly, it doesn't matter.

I'd strongly suggest, the most likely cause is the nut. (statistically it usually is)
There are a couple of aspects that can cause issues, of which im sure youre aware.

First is the width of each slot
Second, the depth of each slot, (string should sit about half way in)
Third, there should be an angle down from the fret board edge toward the headstock so there is a definite fulcrum or edge for the string for a clean take off so it can ring freely and doesn't bind.)
Fourth, the nut itself must not be too high, or, simply fretting on the first 1-2 frets will cause the strings to bend more and sound out of tune in that area (first position). If this is the case, it is a big deal, but remedied by gradually sanding the nut, perfectly flat, to the right height.


Removing a nut is fairly easy. I have always used a block against the nut, from the fret board side, and gently tapped until the glue lets loose. remove and youre off to the races. Cutting a nut is an art, and time consuming. I understand youre not want to risk finish issues, but, a guitar that you hate to play ......is awful. plus with a little care, even an xacto at the finish seam to facilitate clean separation should be fine.

If it were me, I'd take it to a luthier and let them cut you a new nut and set it up. Even if you can do this. It would be a fresh and objective set of eyes. I am not a cork sniffer as to nut materials. While there are differences, I think they are minimal. ( I have bone, ivory, pearl, Tusc, Graphtec and newer stock synthetic stuff that martin and Gibson uses, trade name escapes me, but essentially a hard nylon, and the old ivory like stuff. All can be perfectly functional).

The other likely spot(s)( would be each saddle. I'd likely go over each with some fine sand paper and smooth each groove, remove burrs and sharp edges.

if you top wrap, don't. its one more place where the string could bind and then slip. imho, straight through may eliminate this variable.

Final thought, take a look at the end twists. I have had strings where these actually unwind with heavy bends. I would keep an eye on this. I have heard of soldering the twists, but this seems absurd to me, as typically, this doesn't happen, and if it does, change brands.
 
Last edited:

El Gringo

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Apr 8, 2015
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5,657
I too have an 02 R8Ca.
I don't have tuning stability issues.

My nut slots are cut rather sloppily, and a touch wide and deep. I use graphite powder, as a matter of routine.

I use the locking string wrap too, but, I don't think this is critical for stability. Supposedly, fewer post wraps eliminate places for slipping. Short of a vibrato bar, or entirely loosening a string, I think once wrapped tightly, it doesn't matter.

I'd strongly suggest, the most likely cause is the nut. (statistically it usually is)
There are a couple of aspects that can cause issues, of which im sure youre aware.

First is the width of each slot
Second, the depth of each slot, (string should sit about half way in)
Third, there should be an angle down from the fret board edge toward the headstock so there is a definite fulcrum or edge for the string for a clean take off so it can ring freely and doesn't bind.)
Fourth, the nut itself must not be too high, or, simply fretting on the first 1-2 frets will cause the strings to bend more and sound out of tune in that area (first position). If this is the case, it is a big deal, but remedied by gradually sanding the nut, perfectly flat, to the right height.


Removing a nut is fairly easy. I have always used a block against the nut, from the fret board side, and gently tapped until the glue lets loose. remove and youre off to the races. Cutting a nut is an art, and time consuming. I understand youre not want to risk finish issues, but, a guitar that you hate to play ......is awful. plus with a little care, even an xacto at the finish seam to facilitate clean separation should be fine.

If it were me, I'd take it to a luthier and let them cut you a new nut and set it up. Even if you can do this. It would be a fresh and objective set of eyes. I am not a cork sniffer as to nut materials. While there are differences, I think they are minimal. ( I have bone, ivory, pearl, Tusc, Graphtec and newer stock synthetic stuff that martin and Gibson uses, trade name escapes me, but essentially a hard nylon, and the old ivory like stuff. All can be perfectly functional).

The other likely spot(s)( would be each saddle. I'd likely go over each with some fine sand paper and smooth each groove, remove burrs and sharp edges.

if you top wrap, don't. its one more place where the string could bind and then slip. imho, straight through may eliminate this variable.

Final thought, take a look at the end twists. I have had strings where these actually unwind with heavy bends. I would keep an eye on this. I have heard of soldering the twists, but this seems absurd to me, as typically, this doesn't happen, and if it does, change brands.

Thank you very much for your very detailed and very informative response to my dilemma . You have given me a fresh perspective approach to my problem and I will examine the nut and the saddles more closely . Once again Thank You Very Kindly for taking the time to help me .
 

corpse

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Jun 9, 2007
Messages
4,876
Saddle burrs- check that
I find nut sluts tend to be cut too narrow and are a big contributor to tuning problems. Hear a "ping" when tuning? Something is binding and suddenly letting off. That's a mechanical issue. For some reason it seems to be most problematic on the G- 3rd string.
 

El Gringo

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Apr 8, 2015
Messages
5,657
Saddle burrs- check that
I find nut sluts tend to be cut too narrow and are a big contributor to tuning problems. Hear a "ping" when tuning? Something is binding and suddenly letting off. That's a mechanical issue. For some reason it seems to be most problematic on the G- 3rd string.
Yes, I do hear a ping on the G string and I have used Big Bends Nut Lube on the nut . How would I remedy that on the nut ? What would be good to use ? to give the string a smoother pass thru the nut ? As far as the saddles go what would you advise to help that work better ? This is the head scratcher for me because I assumed (wrongly of course ) that the shop that sold me the guitar would have wanted to address this on the initial setup upon purchase of the R8 guitar and make me a happy and hopefully returning customer which was not to be ! , along with telling me how great the squealing like a fill in the blank adjective Burstbucker 1&3 pickups were supposed to be . This individual is a FORUM Sponsor and for the life of me I can't wrap my head around this one other than the plain old fashioned "Money grab" how he so callously could treat a paying customer this way . Live and Learn I guess as I would not throw money at this guy no matter what . I should out him but I am hesitant as he is Forum sponsor ,but if it was in person I would in a heartbeat . No I have not reached out to him as far as the way this all came about I do not have any faith that he would even bat an eyelash .
 
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corpse

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Jun 9, 2007
Messages
4,876
On saddles I use a small swiss file- a couple passed with an elliptical shaped file- pointed side into the notch. Just one or two quick swipes following the angle of the saddle.
On the nut, use a piece of emery cloth- tear it into a strip about 1/2" wide, slide the cloth into the slot and ONLY SAND THE SIDE. Just four or five passes on either side and try it. Repeat if necessary- but only a couple passes.
Viola.
I don't know why dealers are hesitant to fix stuff- many of them are one-man shops and are too busy, and any time you are near a guitar with hand tools is an opportunity to do MORE damage, visible, price-reducing damage, by dropping something. And who knows what other damage might lurk once one starts fiddling? if you don't find it, it's not there right?
I have seen this particularly with old amps. Now, that said, most reputable dealers will make good if you end up with a genuine bill, but I have bought a couple amps that I know the dealers could not have even listened-to; they made noises the second they were switched on. All were readily fixable- but one in particular, a '69 Deluxe Reverb, was a basket case. Eventually, after a new speaker and a trip to two different techs, it was a great amp- and now tours with Zack Brown's band I might add.
 

El Gringo

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Apr 8, 2015
Messages
5,657
On saddles I use a small swiss file- a couple passed with an elliptical shaped file- pointed side into the notch. Just one or two quick swipes following the angle of the saddle.
On the nut, use a piece of emery cloth- tear it into a strip about 1/2" wide, slide the cloth into the slot and ONLY SAND THE SIDE. Just four or five passes on either side and try it. Repeat if necessary- but only a couple passes.
Viola.
I don't know why dealers are hesitant to fix stuff- many of them are one-man shops and are too busy, and any time you are near a guitar with hand tools is an opportunity to do MORE damage, visible, price-reducing damage, by dropping something. And who knows what other damage might lurk once one starts fiddling? if you don't find it, it's not there right?
I have seen this particularly with old amps. Now, that said, most reputable dealers will make good if you end up with a genuine bill, but I have bought a couple amps that I know the dealers could not have even listened-to; they made noises the second they were switched on. All were readily fixable- but one in particular, a '69 Deluxe Reverb, was a basket case. Eventually, after a new speaker and a trip to two different techs, it was a great amp- and now tours with Zack Brown's band I might add.

Thank You so much for taking the time to help me with my Les Paul and I will do this . You are very wise in how you have explained this to me as far as the dealer goes and it gives me another angle in looking at this in the how and why of this transaction , which makes a lot of sense . Notably "if you don't find it , it's not there right " which I agree with 100 % . I am spoiled by my dealings with Wildwood (Steve Mesple ) Dave's and The Music Zoo who have gone out of there way to detail every tiny little detail whether it is noticeable or not esp. Steve Mesple ! I love those 3 shops which I think are the best !Once again Thank You very Kindly !
 

renderit

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Jan 19, 2009
Messages
10,951
What Corpse said no doubt.

I would pay attention to the side AWAY from the playing area as well.

A string passing a hard break where the back side is sharp can cause a 'ratcheting' effect on the string when tightening on the saddles and loosening on the nut.

I'll call it the 'loading ramp' area has no effect on the tuning directly, but it effects the string a lot. I.e. - the G will be a G without fixing this, but hitting G will. Fixing the 'loading ramp' will eliminate the string pinging PAST the G or way under the G going down.

The saddles are the worst with this problem, the nut is slightly less prone, but still a problem.

It can also literally cause the string to get notches chipped into it at the saddle causing all sorts of problems holding tune.


And I would go a little lighter on the seller.

I would imagine most shops get one in, tune it, look it over and put it back in the case.

'Not holding a tune' is not likely to come up on their radar as they probably don't pull it out every day and play it.
 

El Gringo

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What Corpse said no doubt.

I would pay attention to the side AWAY from the playing area as well.

A string passing a hard break where the back side is sharp can cause a 'ratcheting' effect on the string when tightening on the saddles and loosening on the nut.

I'll call it the 'loading ramp' area has no effect on the tuning directly, but it effects the string a lot. I.e. - the G will be a G without fixing this, but hitting G will. Fixing the 'loading ramp' will eliminate the string pinging PAST the G or way under the G going down.

The saddles are the worst with this problem, the nut is slightly less prone, but still a problem.

It can also literally cause the string to get notches chipped into it at the saddle causing all sorts of problems holding tune.


And I would go a little lighter on the seller.

I would imagine most shops get one in, tune it, look it over and put it back in the case.

'Not holding a tune' is not likely to come up on their radar as they probably don't pull it out every day and play it.

Mucho Gracias Senor Renderit , I will look closely at the saddles . After Corpse response yesterday I did have a fresh perspective on the seller issue . Total frustration on my part with this instrument and all I have to compare it to is the way I was treated by the other shops I mentioned earlier . Thank You Kindly for your advice , I really appreciate .
 

korus

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Jan 18, 2003
Messages
636
There is a reason why original Les Paul guitars had Nylon 6/6 nut and why Gibson Custom Shop guitars also Nylon 6/6 nut since 2009 - it is self lubricated, slippery by design. You do not need to use any lubricant on it EVER. It is the only proper material nut for back angled headstock. And it also influence every tone played on a guitar, open AND fretted.

Search for 323368433039 ebay item no. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

It might seem too expensive. It is not. You will know once you have it on your guitar. If in doubt find 2009 Rx and tune it up properly and play it. It will not go out of tune.
 

El Gringo

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There is a reason why original Les Paul guitars had Nylon 6/6 nut and why Gibson Custom Shop guitars also Nylon 6/6 nut since 2009 - it is self lubricated, slippery by design. You do not need to use any lubricant on it EVER. It is the only proper material nut for back angled headstock. And it also influence every tone played on a guitar, open AND fretted.

Search for 323368433039 ebay item no. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

It might seem too expensive. It is not. You will know once you have it on your guitar. If in doubt find 2009 Rx and tune it up properly and play it. It will not go out of tune.
Thank you for your advice and you are 100% correct as I just started playing my 2014 R9 again and it will not go out of tune from playing as it is a really good guitar and ditto for my other 2 Les Paul's, out of curiosity what is the material that the nut is made of on the 2002 R8 ?. I will check out that nut , Thank you once again I really appreciate that !
 

El Gringo

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I would like to ask about replacing the nut on my dreaded R8 as I started playing her again a few weeks ago and all the dreaded ugly pinging resurfaced again and I went a little to hard/crazy on both the nut and the ABR-1, with the sand paper and the half round jewelers file .Now I have ordered a new Gibson Custom ABR-1 ,non wire , nickel bridge and I need a recommendation/suggestion as to what material nut I should use (bone or whatever plastic that Gibson uses which I think is ABS plastic ? ) I also had a thought which is unscientific that maybe some of the noise coming from the bridge maybe was related to the retaining wire ? of which I tend to doubt .So Sunday morning when I ruined her or whatever adjective to use I was not mad at myself like I usually get , instead I was relieved as to now I will wipe the slate clean with a brand new nut and a brand new ABR-1 bridge . Also where should I purchase the nut from please ?
 

Zeppelinguy85

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I would like to ask about replacing the nut on my dreaded R8 as I started playing her again a few weeks ago and all the dreaded ugly pinging resurfaced again and I went a little to hard/crazy on both the nut and the ABR-1, with the sand paper and the half round jewelers file .Now I have ordered a new Gibson Custom ABR-1 ,non wire , nickel bridge and I need a recommendation/suggestion as to what material nut I should use (bone or whatever plastic that Gibson uses which I think is ABS plastic ? ) I also had a thought which is unscientific that maybe some of the noise coming from the bridge maybe was related to the retaining wire ? of which I tend to doubt .So Sunday morning when I ruined her or whatever adjective to use I was not mad at myself like I usually get , instead I was relieved as to now I will wipe the slate clean with a brand new nut and a brand new ABR-1 bridge . Also where should I purchase the nut from please ?

I'd get a pre slotted bone nut from Stew Mac. It'll save you a ton of time shaping and slotting. Pop it in and do your final slotting to the right depth.
 

El Gringo

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Well my tech specializes in nut replacement and I have the ABR-1 non wire on order so I will be good to go once and for all later on this summer /fall . As I have my R9 going next for ThroBak pickups and set up , then my 1994 Les Paul Classic which will get ThroBak pickups and a new harness , then the infamous R8 that is possessed or haunted or taking over by aliens , but I will wrestle control of that expletive soon enough . So far I am into new ThroBak pickups , new harness , new ABR-1 bridge and lastly I hope a new replacement nut for my infamous R8 .Maybe later this year my Les Paul Custom which has been perfect, knock on wood and fingers crossed !
 

rob livesey

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Feb 28, 2007
Messages
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A friend of mine brought his LP to me last year because it wouldn’t stay in tune.

He had taken it to two shops for setup to try and fix the issue to no avail.

I did my usual routine, but the guitar was still all over the place. It turned out to be the truss rod, it had no tension on it at all despite having a perfect relief. So the neck was just moving too much. I managed to get some tension on it, but this meant it ended up with no relief, but it was still very playable. It fixed the tuning issue right away.

Worth checking.
Rob
 

El Gringo

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A friend of mine brought his LP to me last year because it wouldn’t stay in tune.

He had taken it to two shops for setup to try and fix the issue to no avail.

I did my usual routine, but the guitar was still all over the place. It turned out to be the truss rod, it had no tension on it at all despite having a perfect relief. So the neck was just moving too much. I managed to get some tension on it, but this meant it ended up with no relief, but it was still very playable. It fixed the tuning issue right away.

Worth checking.
Rob
Thank you Kindly for the suggestion about the truss rod , do you know what year model the Les Paul was ? I will most certainly address this potential issue as well . Once again thank you kindly !
 
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maxcarp709

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Jun 16, 2019
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I want to chime in and add to what Rob stated. If the guitar will not stay in tune at all Perhaps it is a broken truss rod. Possibly the nut is stripped on the truss rod. If none of the strings will stay in tune then the neck is moving. With all the attention the guitar has got so far at least one of the strings should stay in tune. If all the strings Go Out Of Tune no matter how much time you spend tuning it, then the neck is moving if it is not the truss rod then the neck is not joined to the body correctly. Long ago I had a guitar that I had to get rid of because of the neck had been glued back to the body and started to come loose again when I put pressure on it. The repair was obvious. One thing to try is to get a straight edge ruler like a steel yard stick and put it on the neck with the strings detuned and then tune the strings up slowly one step at a time and see if the neck moves at all. Good luck!
 

El Gringo

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I want to chime in and add to what Rob stated. If the guitar will not stay in tune at all Perhaps it is a broken truss rod. Possibly the nut is stripped on the truss rod. If none of the strings will stay in tune then the neck is moving. With all the attention the guitar has got so far at least one of the strings should stay in tune. If all the strings Go Out Of Tune no matter how much time you spend tuning it, then the neck is moving if it is not the truss rod then the neck is not joined to the body correctly. Long ago I had a guitar that I had to get rid of because of the neck had been glued back to the body and started to come loose again when I put pressure on it. The repair was obvious. One thing to try is to get a straight edge ruler like a steel yard stick and put it on the neck with the strings detuned and then tune the strings up slowly one step at a time and see if the neck moves at all. Good luck!
Thank You Very Kindly for your help and I really appreciate it and will get a straight edge ruler and check this out !
 

El Gringo

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I just got the green light to ship out the POS R8 to my tech hopefully to get this all sorted out once and for all . I will have the nut replaced with a nylon 6/6 nut , then I will have the ABR-1 replaced with a Gibson Custom non wire ABR-1 , then the tech will inspect the truss rod and the truss rod nut to make sure it is not stripped and try to get it fixed so it can play properly and stay in tune . Will report back the findings probably in a month at the least .
 
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