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When Did Gibson Change To 9 Gauge Strings?

RocknRollShakeUp

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
766
I top wrap. You are right not to change the neck relief, it most likely not the issue. My favorite R9 has a very low bridge and the string angle is slight, by any measure. No buzz. So, where and why the buzz.

First, does it make that buzz through an amplifier, or directly connected to a mixer/recorder or amp sim? If not, no problem.

If so, you'll need to find the cause, and nip it. The diameter change fix may indicate improper saddle slots, the larger string may be sitting higher on the saddle notch and not as deep, or fully seated. Something's different.

It may be that the E and A saddles need the slots addressed, or if too deep, new properly slotted saddles installed. It is easy, [relativey], and inexpensive to do.

It may be something else, but that's my best guess.

You know, admittedly, it was not that audible playing through an amp, maybe less than barely audible. I heard it mainly when playing acoustically and paying close attention. But no denying it, it was there and it was bugging me enough to take action.

A little backstory if you'll indulge me: I have developed an affinity for assessing for very similar buzz when dealing with Jazzmasters, which are commonly suffering from such buzzing, and it is usually quite annoying when it does happen. Usually the fix there is to increase the string down pressure across the saddles by going for as flat a relief as I can stand, which allows to raise the bridge some and increase some down pressure on the saddles. If that doesn't do it, shimming the neck .5 deg to 1 degree will work really well typically. Also heavier strings definitely help.

Anyway, since the buzz started when I top wrapped, and noting the significantly decreased string break angle across the saddles, my hypothesis was that it is the same phenomenon as I see in the JM's. In any case the heavier A and Low E strings cured it. I have to say that I also like the feel of the more girth some bottom strings so it is a win win.

However the idea that it could [also] be a poorly executed string slot in the saddle I had not thought of!
 

Big Al

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
14,537
You know, admittedly, it was not that audible playing through an amp, maybe less than barely audible. I heard it mainly when playing acoustically and paying close attention. But no denying it, it was there and it was bugging me enough to take action.

A little backstory if you'll indulge me: I have developed an affinity for assessing for very similar buzz when dealing with Jazzmasters, which are commonly suffering from such buzzing, and it is usually quite annoying when it does happen. Usually the fix there is to increase the string down pressure across the saddles by going for as flat a relief as I can stand, which allows to raise the bridge some and increase some down pressure on the saddles. If that doesn't do it, shimming the neck .5 deg to 1 degree will work really well typically. Also heavier strings definitely help.

Anyway, since the buzz started when I top wrapped, and noting the significantly decreased string break angle across the saddles, my hypothesis was that it is the same phenomenon as I see in the JM's. In any case the heavier A and Low E strings cured it. I have to say that I also like the feel of the more girth some bottom strings so it is a win win.

However the idea that it could [also] be a poorly executed string slot in the saddle I had not thought of!

Just my guess, no problem.
 

Tom Wittrock

Les Paul Forum Co-Owner
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
42,567
My Bursts came with Gibson Sonomatic #340 strings, featuring a 13 E string and a wound 26 G string.
I have never been able to enjoy my Bursts. :dang

:ganz
 

Texas Blues

Active member
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
4,641
My Bursts came with Gibson Sonomatic #340 strings, featuring a 13 E string and a wound 26 G string.
I have never been able to enjoy my Bursts. :dang

:ganz

Last time I saw your Bursts at the Dallas show.

It never occurred to me to check the string gauge.

And because I didn't get to play them.

I didn't enjoy them either.

I didn't even get to hear the sustain.




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musekatcher

New member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
135


You ain't a full member 'til you been WTF'd by [insert expert] at least 3 times.

Look at it as fun! Works universally. <g>

Mine came with 9s. But, I wasn't happy with the factory setup. I still don't have the G and B moving smoothly. FWIW, I'm about to go to 10s, and see if the extra tension will overcome the nut friction.

I have 9s on most of my guitars, 11's on my main tele, and 13's (!) on a strat. The tremolo works flawless on the strat, and its been in tune for 2 years now, lol. Bending on the strat not an option though..
 

CatManDoo88

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
156
I just switched to Pyramid Nickel Classic 9s on my HM from Pyramid Nickel Classic 10s. I'm really loving loving the feel on the unwound strings and the easy of bending, vibrato, trills, etc., but I am a little uncertain about the tone. It seems a touch brighter and thinner, whereas the tone I got with Nickel Classic 10s seemed perfect. I assume this change is only noticeable because I mainly play through small amps as a basement hobbyist (JTM1 and 57 Tweed Champ Reissue)? I can probably just EQ out the difference at the amp.

I would guess the tone difference is negligible through a big amp (eg. a real Bluesbreaker or Plexi)? I mean Clapton, Page, Gibbons, etc. all played 8s and 9s with their Bursts... (Not to be a Gibson apologist, but perhaps why they switch occasionally to 9s as factory strings? Ie. put the same string on new Bursts typically used by famous Burst players...)
 

Big Al

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
14,537
I just switched to Pyramid Nickel Classic 9s on my HM from Pyramid Nickel Classic 10s. I'm really loving loving the feel on the unwound strings and the easy of bending, vibrato, trills, etc., but I am a little uncertain about the tone. It seems a touch brighter and thinner, whereas the tone I got with Nickel Classic 10s seemed perfect. I assume this change is only noticeable because I mainly play through small amps as a basement hobbyist (JTM1 and 57 Tweed Champ Reissue)? I can probably just EQ out the difference at the amp.

I would guess the tone difference is negligible through a big amp (eg. a real Bluesbreaker or Plexi)? I mean Clapton, Page, Gibbons, etc. all played 8s and 9s with their Bursts... (Not to be a Gibson apologist, but perhaps why they switch occasionally to 9s as factory strings? Ie. put the same string on new Bursts typically used by famous Burst players...)

The tone difference you hear is due to brand not gauge. Tension, materials, core to wrap ratios and core geometry etc., are different from brand to brand and all effect tone. I doubt you'd hear any tonal difference from .009 set and same brand/type .010.
 

CatManDoo88

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
156
The tone difference you hear is due to brand not gauge. Tension, materials, core to wrap ratios and core geometry etc., are different from brand to brand and all effect tone. I doubt you'd hear any tonal difference from .009 set and same brand/type .010.

Hey Al, thanks for the informative reply! Actually, my question arose from the same brand and type of strings. The .010s I was using before were Pyramid Nickel Classics as are the .009s I have on currently. So brand and construction differences should not be playing a role. I guess it could just have been the difference between fresh strings vs old strings? Or in my head?

By the way, Al, I wanted to say that your spirited defence of the 2015 CS series guitars as quality instruments (despite not having the historic long tenon) in an old thread helped me pull the trigger on my beloved CS9 when it came up as a good deal. Merry Christmas!
 

Big Al

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
14,537
Hey Al, thanks for the informative reply! Actually, my question arose from the same brand and type of strings. The .010s I was using before were Pyramid Nickel Classics as are the .009s I have on currently. So brand and construction differences should not be playing a role. I guess it could just have been the difference between fresh strings vs old strings? Or in my head?

By the way, Al, I wanted to say that your spirited defence of the 2015 CS series guitars as quality instruments (despite not having the historic long tenon) in an old thread helped me pull the trigger on my beloved CS9 when it came up as a good deal. Merry Christmas!

Yup, new strings sound a lot different. I apparently can't read.:##:## That whole tenon panic was just ignorant and promoted by dumbass's with no understanding. It's not overall length, it's tight, flat, wood to wood contact that is critical. A lot of good people missed out on guitars of their dreams because instead of honest advise they got internet drivel.

I'm so glad you found the right one.
 

Cryingsky

New member
Joined
Nov 7, 2023
Messages
1
I know this is a old thread, but I have to put in my 2 cents worth.

Most companies ship their guitars with a specific string guage . If you have to use a caliper to find out the string gauge - that tells me it's not easy to detect. If the guitar plays well I want to know it's string guage so I can use the same guage after I buy it. I see nothing wrong with that even if i have to change my preferred string guage for that guitar. There's an Ole saying, " there is no such thing as a dumb question." Some people come across as a know-it-all and I always say, "just keep it to yourself." It works out better that way.
 
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