First Post, First Les Paul, Some Qs - 2016 Gibson R9 STD Historic 1959 VOS Iced Tea

About to buy a 2016 Gibson R9 STD Historic 1959 Les Paul VOS Iced Tea.

http://www.gibson.com/Products/Elec...oric-1959-Les-Paul-Standard.aspx#LPR94VOITNH1

Tried 3 different 59s out, and this particular one felt, played and sounded substantially better. Played it unplugged for a while and did these wood resonance tests, described here: http://www.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/Features/en-us/wood-resonance-1022-2011.aspx - it passed all these tests.


Plugged it in and it sounded amazing, though noticed 2 things, that I am curious to ask about


1) The neck pickup was hotter than the bridge. I tried the other 59s and the pickup output was more balanced in output. The specs show that the DC resistance of the Neck is 8.0K and the bridge is 8.5K...not sure if that has anything to do with varying output levels, or not, but since the other R9s were more balanced, might this just be that the bridge pickup needs to be raised to match volume (or the neck pickup lowered)? I can ask the store's tech to work on this before I take the guitar, though I'd like to understand this myself first. Any guidelines for pickup height and balancing output?


2) When I roll the tone knobs to 0 (and from 0 to about 3), the volume knob jumps abruptly between 9 and 10, rather than having a smooth taper. My 335 doesn't exhibit this behavior, though the 335 has 550K pots, whereas the LP has 500K pots. Might this have something to do with it? The other R9s all displayed this behavior, so it seems normal, though I am wondering if this is something worth working on/fixing? I dig the woman tone when the tone knobs are rolled all the way off, and would prefer it if the volume didn't jump like that, though if it's the nature of Les Pauls, then it's something I can get used to.


Just want to be thorough with my understanding of these instruments. Overall, I am thrilled with this guitar and can't wait to make music with it...just want to make sure I go over everything before walking out the door with it, especially if it's something that I can have the tech check out.


Any other tests/checkups worth performing? I spent a lot of time playing it, and it feels great...weighs 8.65 lbs..I didn't notice any fret buzzing or fretting out, though I can probably go through it once more with lots of bending and double checking. Also, any recommendations for strings? I currently use D'darrio NYXLs, though interested in the Gibson Vintage Reissue for this model as well.


Thanks for the advice! Looking forward to my first LP.

Welcome to the forum Enjoy your new R9 !

Sounds like you may have found one to take home.

Myself I tend the set the neck p/up height for it's best tone on my own amp, then set the bridge to match it. Don't forget that there's some room adjust with the pole pieces too.

You should get pots that do what you want. If it bugs you, change them out. I tend to prefer them to do just what you're describing so that I can hear it move off or onto 10 without peeking.

Check for pinging as you adjust tuners. Test the neck for stifness too. Fret the G sting @ the ninth, then pluck the low E open, then bend the G up a step or a little more without plucking it. If you hear the low E go flat it has a floppy neck.

I run NYXL's on several guitars and like them a lot. However I think they're too bright for my LP, currently I'm running Gibson's strings and they sound good as far as not being too bright or too dark and they are smoother in feel than NYXL's. Sort of feel like they are in between those and an Elixor, almost like a smidge of flatwound.

Thundermtn said:

Sounds like you may have found one to take home.

Myself I tend the set the neck p/up height for it's best tone on my own amp, then set the bridge to match it. Don't forget that there's some room adjust with the pole pieces too.

You should get pots that do what you want. If it bugs you, change them out. I tend to prefer them to do just what you're describing so that I can hear it move off or onto 10 without peeking.

Check for pinging as you adjust tuners. Test the neck for stifness too. Fret the G sting @ the ninth, then pluck the low E open, then bend the G up a step or a little more without plucking it. If you hear the low E go flat it has a floppy neck.

I run NYXL's on several guitars and like them a lot. However I think they're too bright for my LP, currently I'm running Gibson's strings and they sound good as far as not being too bright or too dark and they are smoother in feel than NYXL's. Sort of feel like they are in between those and an Elixor, almost like a smidge of flatwound.

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Thanks for the advice. Just checked a youtube video on tuner pinging, good thing to look out for.

If the neck is "floppy", is that a deal breaker, or does it just need truss rod adjustment?

The truss rod should be adjusted so the relief is correct, regardless of if the neck is soft or stiff. If it has a stiff neck it will probably stay in tune and hold setups better than a soft neck. I think it's also a contributing factor in guitars that sound better than most of their peers.

Just make sure when you test that you're not thumbing the neck way down under the 3rd fret, just a normal comfortable chording position. It's ok for the E to go a hint flat but nothing overly obvious, a soft neck is way obvious.

Thanks! If I want to install Schaller strap locks, will they fit without any drilling? Should I have a tech Install them or are they simple to just screw in? Or do you recommend leaving the buttons and using rubber washers?

Are you talking about using the new Schaller S-Locks? I know some guys that run them and like them a lot, like best thing since sliced bread deal. I also know folks that just use beer washers. Depends on how wild you get.

Personally I don't use anything and keep a close eye on my strap ends. In 16 years I've had my LP slip the strap twice but I'm never without my hands on the guitar so it hasn't hit the deck on me. How you play and what angle you play should call the shot on what you use.

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P.S. These are supposed to fit just fine, you can always put a toothpick etc.. in the old pin hole to tighten things up if you're worried about it. You'll know what it needs when it shows up. Just don't go overboard with a drill when you seat the new screws, hand tool would be the better to gauge the feel.

Thanks for all the advice. Passed the ping test and the neck test. The E string didn’t change pitch at all when bending the g string. This particular R9 is awesome and I couldn’t be happier. Looking for ward to spending more time on the forum.

Right on!

Doesn't surprise me that it passed the neck test, most of the ones that feel noticeably alive in your hands will pass with a stiff neck transmitting vibrations better.

Looking forward to some new guitar day pics, and may you enjoy it for many years.

Will share pictures soon.

Can’t stop playing this beauty. I’m going to learn how to do basic setups, starting with adjusting the pickups.

couple of questions...

the neck pickup is up is perfectly parallel to the strings, but the bridge is angled. Any affect on tone? Any way to set the bridge pickup straight to the body / strings like the neck or is this just cosmetic?

going to experiment with pickup height and also pole piece height...from research seems like setting the pole pieces to follow the radius is suggested....will get a 12” radius tool to try this.

though it also seems some suggest each string has it's own height based on wound, vs unwound, and offers this suggestion: https://hazeguitars.com/blog/how-to-set-pickup-pole-piece-height

Thoughts on either method?

read about screw angles as well and the suggestion to have zig zag like this: / \ / / \ / - and that this should work along with the 12" radius concept.

Wondering other's experiences. I'd like to learn all of this stuff (slowly and patiently) so I can learn and understand the nuances of my new guitar

renderit said:

If I may. Schaller strap locks need the screws shown on this page: http://mojoaxe.com They are the right pitch and diameter and yet fit the straplock button. Thank me later, don't screw your guitar up. They are also made by a forum member.

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+1 here. I just got an aged set from Dan. Used to modify my own screws or do the toothpick thing. This is a much better way. :salude

With the new S locks, the button and screw are one piece.

Adjust your pole pieces by ear.

My neck p/up are pretty close to his diagram, but I like more treble volume, so E-D are the same as that, with G-E about the same but all moved up in height but in the same relation to each other as the picture. With the overall pickup height having the treble side down and the bass side up vs. bobbin level, set this way the top of the screws sort of follow radius but favor volume and clarity for the treble strings.Clarity, volume, p/up and pole piece height is a balance only your ear can tell you what's the best for you.

My ear likes the bridge p/up to generally follow string radius with the p/up pole piece height low and the whole p/up raised.

As long as the screw slot isn't aligned with the string I don't care how they look, but the difference is likely so small I'm imagining a tone difference.

If the top of the bobbin isn't parallel to the strings I tweak or shim it. Again your ear matters, on some super high output p/up's I like to shim the bridge so the the screw side is jacked up, does something different sounding to the magnetic field that I like.

Thundermtn said:

With the new S locks, the button and screw are one piece.

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Sure...but you'll still run into the problem of the holes being slightly larger than those screws, necessitating the toothpick fix or some other solution. Or have these been designed specifically for Gibsons?