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Stewmac Touch-up Markers for Binding

jshape

New member
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
8
I got a wild hair up my backside a couple of weeks ago and started scraping the binding on my 2007 LP Standard. It's always just felt thick to me and there's areas where it felt like it wasn't quite flush with the neck and body. So I filed it all down, evened it out, and rolled off the edges around the frets a bit to give it a more worn in feeling.

It feels great now. The only problem is the binding is now bright white - way too white for my taste. I came across the Stewmac Touch-up Markers and thought they might work great to give the binding a little vintage tint and reestablish the glossy finish.

Has anyone ever used these markers in this capacity? I plan to work slow and use the stain sparingly, but do I need to be concerned about the nitro from the pen melting the edges of the finish in adjacent areas on the edges of the body and neck?

Thanks in advance for your input and expertise!
 

P.Walker

New member
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
941
I got a wild hair up my backside a couple of weeks ago and started scraping the binding on my 2007 LP Standard. It's always just felt thick to me and there's areas where it felt like it wasn't quite flush with the neck and body. So I filed it all down, evened it out, and rolled off the edges around the frets a bit to give it a more worn in feeling.

It feels great now. The only problem is the binding is now bright white - way too white for my taste. I came across the Stewmac Touch-up Markers and thought they might work great to give the binding a little vintage tint and reestablish the glossy finish.

Has anyone ever used these markers in this capacity? I plan to work slow and use the stain sparingly, but do I need to be concerned about the nitro from the pen melting the edges of the finish in adjacent areas on the edges of the body and neck?

Thanks in advance for your input and expertise!

mask off the areas with masking tape.

But to be fair, the lacquer pens really were never really satisfactory to my standards (which is debatable), but perhaps more importantly, not the right tool for the job (less debatable).
 

jshape

New member
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
8
mask off the areas with masking tape.

But to be fair, the lacquer pens really were never really satisfactory to my standards (which is debatable), but perhaps more importantly, not the right tool for the job (less debatable).


What is the right tool? Should I be masking off and spraying?
 

jshape

New member
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
8
sorry for the late response

The irony of stewmac providing the answer :)
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Onlin...o_match_color_on_vintage_binding_repairs.html

Thanks for the response. I had seen this tip from Stewmac, but passed it over initially because I don't have a spray gun. Since I'm not necessarily going for the aged yellow look as much as the vintage blond to match the pickguard and bezels I went ahead and ordered the blond touch- up marker and figured that would do the job. However, after only really finding forum posts and videos from folks who use the markers for dings and scratches and nothing on binding I started second guessing and figured I better get some input. Now I'm thinking maybe I should buy the rattle can blond and take the time to remove the hardware and tape everything off, and go that route for a better result.

Thanks again for the input!
 

P.Walker

New member
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
941
Thanks for the response. I had seen this tip from Stewmac, but passed it over initially because I don't have a spray gun. Since I'm not necessarily going for the aged yellow look as much as the vintage blond to match the pickguard and bezels I went ahead and ordered the blond touch- up marker and figured that would do the job. However, after only really finding forum posts and videos from folks who use the markers for dings and scratches and nothing on binding I started second guessing and figured I better get some input. Now I'm thinking maybe I should buy the rattle can blond and take the time to remove the hardware and tape everything off, and go that route for a better result.

Thanks again for the input!

Where are you located though? If you'd rather not take the project yourself, you could probably have someone here refer to a guy in the area. I don't think it'd be hard, not that I'm undermining your skills of course, but it might be more feasible for someone who has done this often?
 
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