Guys, I need help with studs for my Junior!

thin sissy · Feb 10, 2018

After a recent thread talkning about wraparound bridges I decided to try out the "Stud Finder" and ordered one. I got it yesterday and unfortunately it doesn't fit the studs on my '57 Junior. The new bridge is too thick for the "slits" on the studs.

I think this bridge was designed for these guitars, so I'm guessing someone swapped the bridge and studs on the junior along the way. I'm not very educated on bridges I'm afraid.

So now I'm on the hunt for studs that fit the old bushings but has a bigger gap for the new bridge.I'm a bit confused on the dimensions though... On some swedish guitar stores websites there seems to be studs with M8 threads (8 mm), but I'm assuming old Gibsons don't use euro dimensions. I meassured the old stud threads to 7 mm and the unthreaded part to 6 mm in diameter. I'm not too sure what that makes for in US dimensions (1/4" or 5/16" maybe?).

I took a couple of crappy pictures, I hope someone knows better than I do! BTW, any ideas on my old bridge?

Old and new.

I tried to show the thickness difference here.

Forgot to turn off the flash on this one...

Here's the impossible fit with the new bridge.

guitplayer · Feb 10, 2018

Those may be the original studs and your new tailpiece will
have to be ground down to fit gap. Or find proper studs with correct gap.

J.D. · Feb 10, 2018

SAE UNC thread studs, 5/16" IIRC.

Kim at Historic Makeovers sells them (nickel plated steel) as do a number of online vendors.

https://historicmakeovers.com/product/retrospec-steel-tailpiece-studs/

Highway Star · Feb 10, 2018

thin sissy said:
After a recent thread talkning about wraparound bridges I decided to try out the "Stud Finder" and ordered one. I got it yesterday and unfortunately it doesn't fit the studs on my '57 Junior. The new bridge is too thick for the "slits" on the studs.

I think this bridge was designed for these guitars, so I'm guessing someone swapped the bridge and studs on the junior along the way. I'm not very educated on bridges I'm afraid.

So now I'm on the hunt for studs that fit the old bushings but has a bigger gap for the new bridge.I'm a bit confused on the dimensions though... On some swedish guitar stores websites there seems to be studs with M8 threads (8 mm), but I'm assuming old Gibsons don't use euro dimensions. I meassured the old stud threads to 7 mm and the unthreaded part to 6 mm in diameter. I'm not too sure what that makes for in US dimensions (1/4" or 5/16" maybe?).

I took a couple of crappy pictures, I hope someone knows better than I do! BTW, any ideas on my old bridge?

Old and new.

I tried to show the thickness difference here.

Forgot to turn off the flash on this one...

Here's the impossible fit with the new bridge.

I had the same problem. Ordered studs from Faber that are adjustable. Works perfect

Big Al · Feb 10, 2018

Order a pair of studs from the company that made the new bridge. The best/smartest move to make. Put the original studs with the original bridge and keep them together.

renderit · Feb 11, 2018

Big Al said:
Order a pair of studs from the company that made the new bridge. The best/smartest move to make. Put the original studs with the original bridge and keep them together.

Wise words. Or pay an Englishman here for originals. Yuuki. Dudes got the goods.

thin sissy · Feb 11, 2018

Thank you everybody, good advice

! I was hoping to get something that doesn't take weeks to ship, so if I can find something in Sweden or at least Europe that would be great. That's why I was wondering about the metric vs. US dimensions thing (you are right though, Big Al, getting the studs from the same company is the safest bet).

Locking studs looks like the easiest solution right now, as long as I can get the right threads as my current inserts in the guitar (it would be great if I didn't have to change the inserts).

BTW, do you guys have any thoughts on my old tailpiece? Did thin tailpieces appear on 57 Jr's?

zappa1777 · Feb 15, 2018

I would file down the tailpiece. I've done that often with faber tailpieces which often don't fit vintage studs

thin sissy · Feb 17, 2018

zappa1777 said:
I would file down the tailpiece. I've done that often with faber tailpieces which often don't fit vintage studs

Thanks man, that's the way I would go if I had the tools at my current location (I don't). Meanwhile, I'm looking at my R8 studs and thinking I might steal them for the Jr while I wait for a new pair of studs to arrive... :hmm

zombiwoof · Feb 17, 2018

Vintage -type aluminum TP's (and wrap-bars) have thinner ears like the originals, you have to use the correct studs (steel or brass) that accommodate the thinner ears, they have less distance between the flanges that the ears fit into. Modern heavier zinc TP'S have thicker ears and studs to match. When you change to a vintage type TP, you need to replace the studs to the correct type to avoid leaning of the TP.
Al

MeHereNow · Feb 17, 2018

57 junior wraparounds were chromeplated?

thin sissy · Feb 17, 2018

zombiwoof said:
Vintage -type aluminum TP's (and wrap-bars) have thinner ears like the originals, you have to use the correct studs (steel or brass) that accommodate the thinner ears, they have less distance between the flanges that the ears fit into. Modern heavier zinc TP'S have thicker ears and studs to match. When you change to a vintage type TP, you need to replace the studs to the correct type to avoid leaning of the TP.
Al

Right you are, I'm getting locking studs to accomodate for the new bridge!

thin sissy · Feb 17, 2018

MeHereNow said:
57 junior wraparounds were chromeplated?

They weren't, right? Is my original bridge chrome? I've always suspected it's something else, but I haven't bothered to look it up or change it because the guitar sounds so good as it is. If the bridge and/or studs have been changed in the past, all bets are off as to how thin or thick the lips are on the bridge I guess :hee

BurstWurst · Feb 17, 2018

I do like using locking studs on wrap-tail guitars. If I didn't have original parts, it's the way I'd go. My 62 (SG) junior came to me with an unoriginal bridge, and my solution was a MojoAxe "lightning bolt" bridge, and locking studs. However, with my 57 Junior (all original parts), I chose to stay with the original studs even though I use a MojoAxe wrap-tail with that guitar. I'd suggest with your 57 Junior, getting a MojoAxe bridge and locking studs if you don't have (or want to search out) original parts. My 57 Junior, in this configuration, is a joy to play!

thin sissy · Feb 17, 2018

BurstWurst said:
I do like using locking studs on wrap-tail guitars. If I didn't have original parts, it's the way I'd go. My 62 (SG) junior came to me with an unoriginal bridge, and my solution was a MojoAxe "lightning bolt" bridge, and locking studs. However, with my 57 Junior (all original parts), I chose to stay with the original studs even though I use a MojoAxe wrap-tail with that guitar. I'd suggest with your 57 Junior, getting a MojoAxe bridge and locking studs if you don't have (or want to search out) original parts. My 57 Junior, in this configuration, is a joy to play!

Thanks for your reply man!

Check out the intonated bridge I got (instead of the Mojoaxe, which I will also get at some point to compare), I think it will work out really well! I'll definitely get new studs that fit the new bridge, and keep my original studs and bridge (whatever they are?) in the case. I really didn't have a problem with the unintonated bridge actually, but this new Stud Finder thingy looked so interesting. I'll report when I finally get it on the guitar

Does anyone have any opinion on my old bridge and studs, what they might be?

Guys, I need help with studs for my Junior!

thin sissy

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guitplayer

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