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Which new pots most like a vintage centralab?

ChevChelios

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
774
So these are made by clement and bournes as the literature seems to indicate?

Sorry for not responding to this earlier, but yes, I have these custom made by Bourns.

One thing I learned is that the taper of the originals, which these repros are attempting to replicate, are more drastic than the US counterparts (which I assume he means CTS). Yet in the case of RS superpots for example, they say it was made because they found the CTS pots too steep and drastic and thus their final taper is between let's say cts audio and linear. Very confusing. What gives?

We've analyzed a whole bunch of original Centralab pots from the 50s (plus the pots in my own vintage Gibsons as an example for the pots in their "natural" environment) and even though their values varied quite a bit, the taper was almost perfectly identical for all tested vintage pots.
When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar.

I really, really like my VIPots. They don't break the bank, feel and behave exactly like the Centralabs in my old guitars and are really easy to solder.

beaa23_cc79244b112c47a69c999cf07be49b67~mv2.jpg


I've been getting quite a few of those: "I recently ordered a pair of VIP Pots and a NOS Cap from your online store. Like with many vintage Gibsons, the old Centralab pots start to degrade and the hunting for original pots gets expensive. My '63 SG Junior was in need of new pots so I stumbled across your site and decided to give them a try. As soon as I got the harness together and plugged it in, I was instantly satisfied. You guys completely nailed the taper and feel of a real Centralab. Can't thank you enough and I am extremely happy, as is the original P90 pickup!"
 

P.Walker

New member
Joined
Apr 17, 2007
Messages
941
Sorry for not responding to this earlier, but yes, I have these custom made by Bourns.



We've analyzed a whole bunch of original Centralab pots from the 50s (plus the pots in my own vintage Gibsons as an example for the pots in their "natural" environment) and even though their values varied quite a bit, the taper was almost perfectly identical for all tested vintage pots.
When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar.

I really, really like my VIPots. They don't break the bank, feel and behave exactly like the Centralabs in my old guitars and are really easy to solder.

beaa23_cc79244b112c47a69c999cf07be49b67~mv2.jpg


I've been getting quite a few of those: "I recently ordered a pair of VIP Pots and a NOS Cap from your online store. Like with many vintage Gibsons, the old Centralab pots start to degrade and the hunting for original pots gets expensive. My '63 SG Junior was in need of new pots so I stumbled across your site and decided to give them a try. As soon as I got the harness together and plugged it in, I was instantly satisfied. You guys completely nailed the taper and feel of a real Centralab. Can't thank you enough and I am extremely happy, as is the original P90 pickup!"

Wow. Thanks for the info. So it seems the originals have a steeper taper than regular CTS audio taper 500k pots.

So when discussing how steep the taper is, I assume the order is (from most steep to least steep)

1. originals = VIP pots
2. regular CTS audio taper 500k
3. RS super pots
4. regular CTS linear pots.

The steeper the pot is, the more easy it is to fine tune clean up with a loud amp and other fuzz boxes I assume.
 

JimFog

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2001
Messages
182
I got a set of these for my 335, and while the clarity is nice, the taper on the volume SUCKS. Everything happens between 10 and 8, then it's inaudible.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4X-CTS-TAO...416297?hash=item4b272706e9:g:SAwAAOSw3ZtaLtn2

Has anyone tried these, and can recommend something similar, but with a better taper that's not TOO pricey? The VIP pots mentioned below sounded interesting until he mentioned:

"When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar."

That seems like the issue I'm trying to AVOID.
 

1LT

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
10
I got a set of these for my 335, and while the clarity is nice, the taper on the volume SUCKS. Everything happens between 10 and 8, then it's inaudible.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4X-CTS-TAO...416297?hash=item4b272706e9:g:SAwAAOSw3ZtaLtn2

Has anyone tried these, and can recommend something similar, but with a better taper that's not TOO pricey? The VIP pots mentioned below sounded interesting until he mentioned:

"When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar."

That seems like the issue I'm trying to AVOID.

E-gads! I have the same problem as you. I always thought that the drop off around eight was due to the pots not being like vintage . I was confused about all the different types of tapers in different brands of pots out there. I thought audio taper was better. I purchased a set of those VIP pots when I saw them on Reverb a few days ago before I saw this recent post about them . I’m afraid I made a mistake now because I’ve been looking for the same thing you are, that is, I want a nice gradual taper in volume without the steep drop off. I still want better clarity and feel ( not too loose or too tight) . I contacted The Art of Tone Guy and he would not send me a matched set ( all 500K or better) so I opted for these VIPpots. The PEC pots that another member recommended look great but the owner of the company must have been reading this thread because between late last year and now they more than doubled in price! Also they might be a PITA to solder. Bourns has a guitar pot which is also very pricey but I’m sure they are great quality.
 

JimFog

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2001
Messages
182
Took it to my tech today, and he put in a very mild treble bleed circuit ( 680pf cap & 220k resistor) and voilà!!.......the taper is excellent now, all the way through the range of the pot, but without any of that typical "glassiness" that intense treble bleeds can cause. These are the Art of Tone CTS pots I linked, above.

Give it a shot.
 

TM1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,349
My thing has not been so much the taper but the material of the tracks as the old Central pots retained clarity as you turned them down. Almost all of the pots in my guitars, with the exception of my Travis Bean (uses long shaft)are vintage Centralabs. So what's the material of the Tracks, are they exactly the same as the old pots?
Can anyone answer that?
 

TM1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,349
I just ordered 4 pots from VIP. I'll give them a shot. I have some 1953 IRC's in my R-4 Standard that make a little noise. Price is right..
 

TM1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,349
I installed the set into my 2007 R-4. It was originally a Goldtop but I sent it to Historic Makeovers and the first time Dave did a great job, but after about 4 years Kim had me send it back to him in Florida as by that time they could do the top carve and reshape the neck and had the right body and neck binding material, Inlays and a nice piece of Brazilian.
I've had a set of IRC 500k pots from 1956 until today. I installed the VIP's and was pleasantly surprised/impressed. They are very clear sounding on a whole. I don't mind the taper at all as all my other pots in my other Gibson's are Centralab's and are similar tapers. I think that once they get used a bit that the taper will ease up..
They are easy to solder to on the backs. My only suggestion would be to have the lugs a bit longer and the holes in the lugs slightly larger. But sonically I'm hearing a bigger Freq. response and a lot more clarity than the IRC's which GIBSON used from the late '40's until 1955/56'. A definite improvement!
certainly worth every cent I paid!
 

jbzoso2002

New member
Joined
May 10, 2009
Messages
1,089
Sorry for not responding to this earlier, but yes, I have these custom made by Bourns.



We've analyzed a whole bunch of original Centralab pots from the 50s (plus the pots in my own vintage Gibsons as an example for the pots in their "natural" environment) and even though their values varied quite a bit, the taper was almost perfectly identical for all tested vintage pots.
When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar.

I really, really like my VIPots. They don't break the bank, feel and behave exactly like the Centralabs in my old guitars and are really easy to solder.

beaa23_cc79244b112c47a69c999cf07be49b67~mv2.jpg


I've been getting quite a few of those: "I recently ordered a pair of VIP Pots and a NOS Cap from your online store. Like with many vintage Gibsons, the old Centralab pots start to degrade and the hunting for original pots gets expensive. My '63 SG Junior was in need of new pots so I stumbled across your site and decided to give them a try. As soon as I got the harness together and plugged it in, I was instantly satisfied. You guys completely nailed the taper and feel of a real Centralab. Can't thank you enough and I am extremely happy, as is the original P90 pickup!"


When do you think you will have long shaft versions of these?

Thanks Jimmy
 

Ed A

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2001
Messages
4,679
Sorry for not responding to this earlier, but yes, I have these custom made by Bourns.



We've analyzed a whole bunch of original Centralab pots from the 50s (plus the pots in my own vintage Gibsons as an example for the pots in their "natural" environment) and even though their values varied quite a bit, the taper was almost perfectly identical for all tested vintage pots.
When you've owned a vintage Gibson with Centralabs, you know (and appreciate) the pretty steep drop off around 8(ish). Guys like JD Simo use this feature a lot as the "boost switch" of the guitar.

I really, really like my VIPots. They don't break the bank, feel and behave exactly like the Centralabs in my old guitars and are really easy to solder.

beaa23_cc79244b112c47a69c999cf07be49b67~mv2.jpg


I've been getting quite a few of those: "I recently ordered a pair of VIP Pots and a NOS Cap from your online store. Like with many vintage Gibsons, the old Centralab pots start to degrade and the hunting for original pots gets expensive. My '63 SG Junior was in need of new pots so I stumbled across your site and decided to give them a try. As soon as I got the harness together and plugged it in, I was instantly satisfied. You guys completely nailed the taper and feel of a real Centralab. Can't thank you enough and I am extremely happy, as is the original P90 pickup!"

Hey there... so I am ready to try these because I still havent found anything just like my old Centralabs with taper and feel... couple questions first... in the past Ive used Bournes because they were very loose turning like old Centralabs (cant stand stiff pots!!!)... but the quality sucked... solder them a couple times and they are shot... are these better made?... Thick carbon traces like the originals?... Easy turning like the originals?... Happy to hear they have the correct taper... THANKS!
 

ChevChelios

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2012
Messages
774
... but the quality sucked... solder them a couple times and they are shot... are these better made?

I've done the testing myself, re-soldering the VIPots five times in a 57 Les Paul wiring, switching positions every time (so that every pot got a good portion of heat to the cover) and all pots worked just fine. However: You'll have to turn them down to 0. If you keep them open or somewhere in between, you'll kill the trace when applying too much heat. Also, always use a chisel soldering tip and a 40+W iron. However, that's true for all pots.

My logo on the back is not (just) cosmetic, it's also helping a lot with soldering the ground connections onto the cover. Aka, less heat exposure, less damage to the pot. I've only heard from one guy who burned a VIPot, and he had used a pencil soldering tip with an overpowered soldering station. When he used the "correct" heat and a chisel tip, it worked like a charm.

Thick carbon traces like the originals?... Easy turning like the originals?... Happy to hear they have the correct taper...

Thick carbon traces = no. Easy(er) turning/torque like the originals (when they were new) = yes.
 

Ed A

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2001
Messages
4,679
I've done the testing myself, re-soldering the VIPots five times in a 57 Les Paul wiring, switching positions every time (so that every pot got a good portion of heat to the cover) and all pots worked just fine. However: You'll have to turn them down to 0. If you keep them open or somewhere in between, you'll kill the trace when applying too much heat. Also, always use a chisel soldering tip and a 40+W iron. However, that's true for all pots.

My logo on the back is not (just) cosmetic, it's also helping a lot with soldering the ground connections onto the cover. Aka, less heat exposure, less damage to the pot. I've only heard from one guy who burned a VIPot, and he had used a pencil soldering tip with an overpowered soldering station. When he used the "correct" heat and a chisel tip, it worked like a charm.



Thick carbon traces = no. Easy(er) turning/torque like the originals (when they were new) = yes.

Thanks. Will give them a try.
 

El Gringo

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Messages
5,657
Try Marks Guitar Loft , the have a wired harness with 500K pots and Bumble Bee caps and this is sonic heaven for your Les Paul .I know because I bought one for my Les Paul Custom and it just sings now .Talk about tone !
 

goldtop0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Messages
8,931
I've done the testing myself, re-soldering the VIPots five times in a 57 Les Paul wiring, switching positions every time (so that every pot got a good portion of heat to the cover) and all pots worked just fine. However: You'll have to turn them down to 0. If you keep them open or somewhere in between, you'll kill the trace when applying too much heat. Also, always use a chisel soldering tip and a 40+W iron. However, that's true for all pots.

My logo on the back is not (just) cosmetic, it's also helping a lot with soldering the ground connections onto the cover. Aka, less heat exposure, less damage to the pot. I've only heard from one guy who burned a VIPot, and he had used a pencil soldering tip with an overpowered soldering station. When he used the "correct" heat and a chisel tip, it worked like a charm.



Thick carbon traces = no. Easy(er) turning/torque like the originals (when they were new) = yes.


Thanks Chev I'm going to try a set also........they're very reasonably priced:salude
 

TM1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,349
ED; I think you'll like these pots! I bought a second set and put them into my 2003 FB VII. I set it up with 3 Volumes and a Master Tone. I can blend the middle pickup in with the neck & bridge or have all three on at once. Works very nice, the sound is clear/clean and with it's trio of of early Sixties Gibson/Silvertone Mini's has never sounded so clear and sweet!
I'm going to buy a set for my mahogany Tele with another old Gibson/Silvertone mini in the neck and a Klein Broadcaster in the bridge.
 

Cream Fan

Active member
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
2,695
So, I take it the tracks are silk-screened? I've heard of some pots being double- and triple-screened for durability and longevity. Is that the case here?
 
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