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Retro Fit From Nashville to ABR-1

B

badco33

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2002
Messages
131
tom wu said:
Wow badco..never thunkadat! That's great. :applaude
I really need to get off the couch more..:wah
So.. Do you think I should do that same drilling procedure to a real 59 abr I want to put on my 06 standard?:couch
Click to expand...

Sure, what tha hell, drill away.
 
schlacker

schlacker

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
93
I've never drilled plated guitar parts before. But I have drilled other plated objects like on my motorcycle & I've sometimes had issues with chipping & peeling. Could this be an issue when drilling out a bridge post? If so, how can I safeguard against this?
I'm obviously thinking about doing this mod also.

Thanks,
 
J

Jeff

Guest
Musicinmysoul said:
Danelectros way is great but I just don't want to mess up my guitar in a way it would a lot to fix! I'm thinking I'll just drill out an ABR-1.
Click to expand...
That does work, I have done it myself. No big deal and the metal is pretty soft, so it's easy to drill. When done, it looked fine.

DANELECTRO: Very nice work! When the thumbwheels are in place, you can't even see the touchups. Well done!
 
B

badco33

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2002
Messages
131
I was afraid of that as well, especially with the gold bridge, but I just flipped it over and drilled from the bottom to the top and was a little carefull when the bit moved through and reached the top area that would be visible. You really aren't increasing the size that much so the process goes pretty quick and doesn't require a lot of work from the drill. If you have a good drill and a good bit you should be all set.
 
geetarpicker

geetarpicker

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2003
Messages
812
I recently changed the Nashville bridge on my Les Paul faded standard to an ABR-1. All I did was buy a repro new Gibson ARB-1, and ream out the holes ever so slightly with a drill from the back side. I then still use the Nashville posts and adjusters. The stock inserts lean just a tiny bit right at the top, but the guitar stays in tune fine just as well as before. The sustain is better, ESPECIALLY when trying for high gain controlled feedback. The tone is a little warmer, and more "vintage" like.
 
44deluxe

44deluxe

New member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
114
*applauds DANELECTRO's photos and methods*



:3zone :3zone :3zone :3zone
 
MikeScalf

MikeScalf

New member
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
1,307
badform said:
Conversion studs/bushings are available here:

http://store.guitarfetish.com/nabstforusag.html (chrome)
http://store.guitarfetish.com/ngostforabus.html (gold)
http://store.guitarfetish.com/nblabstforus.html (black - currently out of stock)

I found that today looking for other bridge stuff. Since the first one I'm converting is wearing black hardware, I might just ream out the holes slightly to get the job done.
Click to expand...

Thank God for being able to search old threads. Also thanks badform for the links. I have been wondering how to convert the Nashville bridge to ABR-1 since I picked up my Standard Saturday. Just ordered a set. :applaude
 
D

DonP

Active member
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Messages
3,020
Just an FYI guys - I thought it was well known the the Gotoh ABR-1 bridge is a direct fit onto Nashville studs. I have a gold Gotoh to use on my 1977 Custom and have tried it and it fits. I think Stew Mac sells the Gotoh ABR-1.
 
zeplin

zeplin

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
72
I used a #19 drill bit to enlarge the holes for mine. Very good fit and no damage. Using a drill press at low speed an securing the bridge in a vise while drilling is recommended.
 
MikeScalf

MikeScalf

New member
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
1,307
I'm planning on using a TonePros AVR-II and lightweight tail peice, so that's why I ordered the stud convertion. As little as the kit costs, I couldn't go wrong. :jim
 
Don

Don

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Messages
5,732
I mentioned in another thread on the subject that I used a tapered ream to open up the holes on an ABR-1 so it would fit my Nasshveiile studs.
I did the reaming from the bottom. The hole ended up almost exactly the same size and taper as the holse on the Nashville.
I did not enlarge the hole at the top of the ABr-1 bridge at all and the exposed plating was not affected at all.
 
Schneidas15

Schneidas15

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
222
badform said:
Conversion studs/bushings are available here:

http://store.guitarfetish.com/nabstforusag.html (chrome)
http://store.guitarfetish.com/ngostforabus.html (gold)
http://store.guitarfetish.com/nblabstforus.html (black - currently out of stock)

I found that today looking for other bridge stuff. Since the first one I'm converting is wearing black hardware, I might just ream out the holes slightly to get the job done.
Click to expand...


Thanks for that info!

Btw, I just recieved those studs and the Tonepros ABR bridge to replace the Nashville bridge on my LP Standard Faded.
Question for ya:
Do I have to slot/notch the saddles (as they have come unslotted) on the Tonepros ABR or doesn't it matter?
I mean, I have a Strat with a Callaham steel vintage trem and the saddles on the Callaham are not slotted either (and according to Callaham, they don't need to be slotted).

Thanks
 
Don

Don

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Messages
5,732
Schneidas15 said:
Thanks for that info!

Btw, I just recieved those studs and the Tonepros ABR bridge to replace the Nashville bridge on my LP Standard Faded.
Question for ya:
Do I have to slot/notch the saddles (as they have come unslotted) on the Tonepros ABR or doesn't it matter?
I mean, I have a Strat with a Callaham steel vintage trem and the saddles on the Callaham are not slotted either (and according to Callaham, they don't need to be slotted).

Thanks
Click to expand...

Strat saddles don't need slots.
I slotted my ABR-1 saddles very slightly with nut files. They're not very deep though.
1/2 the string's thickness would be way too deep.
 
Danny

Danny

Les Paul Forum Member, Formerly Musicinmysoul
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
1,875
Take your guitar to your most trusted luthier/tec and he'll cut the slots for 15 bucks, probably even less.
 
Schneidas15

Schneidas15

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
222
Ok thanks guys.
Btw, how come Fender saddles don't need to be slotted and Gibson ones need to be?
 
BobV

BobV

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Jan 11, 2009
Messages
831
Schneidas15 said:
Ok thanks guys.
Btw, how come Fender saddles don't need to be slotted and Gibson ones need to be?
Click to expand...

The strat bridge controls the string spacing and location by simply having the string pull from a nearby hole in the baseplate. On a Gibson the string spacing at the stop tailpiece is slightly narrower so the strings splay out a bit and have to be held in place with notches or they'll slide across the saddles into wierd positions.

When a luthier slots the saddles, he or she is going to space the outer two strings so they sit just right in comparison to where the edges of the frets are (to do that on a Fender you loosen the neck bolts and shove the neck into alignment before retightening the screws - hard to do with a set-neck Gibson). Then they can space the rest of the strings proportionally so the plain strings aren't too far apart and the wound strings aren't too crowded. It's a hallmark of a Gibson setup that you don't find on the imports. If you want notches dead center on each saddle, then just get an import bridge with pre-notched saddles.
 
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