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How important to you is original finish on a 52:56 Goldtop?

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
Question is in the title

But I would like to also expand upon conversions from 52/53 to 54/56 (sticking with the goldtops) where the necks have been reset and or hardware replaced and new holes for the ABR etc

I'd really like to splash out on something in the new year, with a maximum budget of under £20k GBP. I really need some of that super old wood and braz board action before I get too committed in life and wind up needing to spend money on other things.

I've seen in the UK (online prices in the EU) range from having a converted 52 to a 54 wrap with totally beat up finish for as low as £12k GBP to a totally mint original 54 wrap for in Paris for £26k GBP. And sky's the limit with a mint 56 I've seen £38k

I would only be in the position to spend less than £20k GBP, ideally less.

I could fly to the USA and pickup a original 54 wrap with original case and in decent condition for say £17k plus flights and accommodation. Another option is I could pickup an original 56 for £17k that has been refinished. Everything else is original on it but it looks like a new true historic.

In terms of playability for me this would probably be ideal as the 56 bridge configuration is what I am used to. Also has been refretted and all the rest of it. Sure if this was original finish in that condition it would be double the price

Functionality is most important to me, it needs to play flawlessly as well as sound the part, or there is no point in owning it if I don't enjoy playing it equally or more than say a new R9. Looks are 2nd, but a very close 2nd

This purchase would also be an investment, something to hand down to the unborn kid(s) should any arrive, or get me out of trouble financially should anything come up (would rather have £20k in a guitar than £20k doing nothing in the bank or in stocks etc).

I've always loved the worn checking and the like of the original finishes. So maybe I would regret a refin. There isn't anyone in the UK who does relic jobs I don't believe. The tom Murphy 56 is not relic just painted so it looks new.

It's a long way off for me and none of these instruments will be around in the new year (probably) but other similar ones will be.

In your personal opinions for your own uses, what would you go for?

Many thanks guys. Very interested in your thoughts and what you ended up purchasing ?
 
Last edited:

Bouldergold

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
70
I had a 52-57 Gold Top Conversion built for me two years ago.
Started with an original 52 with 75 % of original finish remaining.
Had the neck re-set, installed two vintage PAF's, refret with 59 style frets, and all other late 50's parts.
By far this is the best playing and sounding guitar I have ever owned.
I have owned several 50's , 60's goldtops,,,Historics,,late 50's 335's.
This is the best.
Finishing touches?
The original finish is in tact and I would never by a conversion that has been refinished.
Pay more for an original one.

 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
Great response, thanks mate.

What makes this conversion so great for you? Also what made you go for getting a conversion when you already have (or had) 50s goldtops? Also what made you move on your 50s goldtops (the one(s) you don't own anymore.

so the moral of the story for you personally is original finish is a must.
 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
Another question: did you have the 52 first and know it was a great guitar stock prior to the conversion? What's the story? Many thanks
 

Tom Wittrock

Les Paul Forum Co-Owner
Joined
Aug 2, 2001
Messages
42,567
I got this one in 1980 and have not had it refinished.

917_p43060.jpg


I think that shows how important the original Goldtop finish is to me. :ganz
 

marfen

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2016
Messages
330
An original P90 wraptail Les Paul is an iconic sounding/playing guitar that needs no modification to improve. Buy an original 56 GT and call it a day...you're set for life with one of those.
 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
Hello mate, is that a 57? Absolutely love it! That's the kind of look I like and would pay extra for, over a refin, but how much extra is the question I suppose if I really want a 50s LP perhaps
 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
An original P90 wraptail Les Paul is an iconic sounding/playing guitar that needs no modification to improve. Buy an original 56 GT and call it a day...you're set for life with one of those.

Thanks for the response. Unlikely I will find a 56 for under £20k however in original finish/parts
 

Bouldergold

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Messages
70
The Goldtops that I sold were all P90's.
To me they were noisy and not as versatile as PAF's.
The guitars all had the smaller frets that to me are not as desirable.



I had a 52-57 Gold Top Conversion built for me two years ago.
Started with an original 52 with 75 % of original finish remaining.
Had the neck re-set, installed two vintage PAF's, refret with 59 style frets, and all other late 50's parts.
By far this is the best playing and sounding guitar I have ever owned.
I have owned several 50's , 60's goldtops,,,Historics,,late 50's 335's.
This is the best.
Finishing touches?
The original finish is in tact and I would never by a conversion that has been refinished.
Pay more for an original one.

 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
For me i love P90s, especially in a LP.
I assume Frets can be changed without any loss to the original integrity to the instrument to 59 style or larger modern as most 50s LPs I've seen have been refretted at some point to make it playable
 

dwagar

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
4,451
Having the original finish wasn't as important to me as being able to afford one.

My '53 GT was stripped and horribly finished with clear poly. But the price was right. And I wanted a player guitar.

If investment is that important, I'd think you'd want as close to dead stock original as you can find.
 

Jeggz

Active member
Joined
Jul 29, 2017
Messages
109
I've thought about selling or trading my 54 Wraptail many a time for 52/53 - 57 conversion, original finish is ABSOLUTELY a must, it's actually more important than P.A.Fs.


To me.

But I guess at the end of the day it's a modified guitar, so does it really make a difference?


Id go with the 54.
 

thin sissy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
2,691
Have you played a wraptail LP before? We are many who love them, and I personally think it would be a big shame to convert a fine 54 to an ABR-1 "56".

Of course, one can do whatever one wants with one's own guitar, I know that.
 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
Have you played a wraptail LP before? We are many who love them, and I personally think it would be a big shame to convert a fine 54 to an ABR-1 "56".

Of course, one can do whatever one wants with one's own guitar, I know that.

I wouldn't want to convert a 54 to a 56.

I'd happily have a 52 converted to a 54 !

I'd only want to convert a 52/53 with the trap style bridge to something else (54 or 56) due to the shallow unplayable neck, or buy one that had been converted.
 

Highway Star

New member
Joined
Oct 8, 2017
Messages
192
I got this one in 1980 and have not had it refinished.

917_p43060.jpg


I think that shows how important the original Goldtop finish is to me. :ganz

LOL, it certalnly does. That guitar takes "vintage look" to a totally new level. Looks awesome by the way. Got its own personallity :yah
 

thin sissy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
2,691
I wouldn't want to convert a 54 to a 56.

I'd happily have a 52 converted to a 54 !

I'd only want to convert a 52/53 with the trap style bridge to something else (54 or 56) due to the shallow unplayable neck, or buy one that had been converted.
Sorry man, I misread your post. I'm kind of in the same boat BTW, I'm hoping to get a vintage goldtop within the next year, but there aren't many for sale here, and one of the few I know of is refinished. My ideal guitar would be an original finish wraptail 54/55.

Keep us posted :)
 

dwagar

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
4,451
I wouldn't want to convert a 54 to a 56.

I'd happily have a 52 converted to a 54 !

I'd only want to convert a 52/53 with the trap style bridge to something else (54 or 56) due to the shallow unplayable neck, or buy one that had been converted.

A Mojoaxe bridge is a better option IMO.
 

Patek

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
415
A Mojoaxe bridge is a better option IMO.

The trap piece looks good

However Is there not an issue with 52s having a shallow neck angle and therefore the action will never be as good as the later models without a reset? I wouldn't want to compromise on a nano metre
 
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