• Guys, we've spent considerable money converting the Les Paul Forum to this new XenForo platform, and we have ongoing monthly operating expenses. THE "DONATIONS" TAB IS NOW WORKING, AND WE WOULD APPRECIATE ANY DONATIONS YOU CAN MAKE TO KEEP THE LES PAUL FORUM GOING! Thank you!

ABR 1 Conversion Posts

DannyR8

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
219
Why do two types of conversion posts exist?

The type that looks like it will work is a concentric design having the larger diameter portion that threads into the body bushing, with the smaller diameter portion centered above it to accept the bridge.



The other type has the larger diameter portion and smaller diameter portion lined up along one side of the post, leaving the smaller portion off center. I don't understand how this would line up properly between the body bushings and the bridge.



I will obviously measure the span between the holes on my new bridge when it comes in, but I was trying to get a better understanding of what options are available to me. I am holding out on the dowel fill and redrill approach for the time being. I like to make changes one piece at a time so I can fairly evaluate change, if any. Thanks.
 

Minibucker

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2003
Messages
6,372
I think the offset is because the center-to-center measurement of ABR-1 posts differ slightly from Nashville's. Either that, or (maybe and as well) to give more range of intonation/tilt to the ABR-1. But from personal experience, I would forego the conversion posts that go into the Nashville bushings and get either an ABR-type that fits over the Nashville thumbwheels/posts, or the conversion posts that replace the entire bushing itself, like….

http://www.faberusa.com/product-category/faber-bridge-studs/for-nashville-conversions/faber-insert/
3116.jpg



http://www.callahamguitars.com/abr1.htm
g_brdgn2b.jpg
 

DannyR8

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
219
So the top option from my post is what would work out of those choices that I presented? Both the Faber and Callaham replacements seem to be most similar to that type.

I guess the offset design could allow for better intonation options, I didn't think of that. It seems to me that you would want to thread the lower half into the bushing equally on both sides for uniformity sake though.

At this point I am going to try an option that allows the stock bushings to stay in the guitar. If I realize that I will never go back to stock through my trial and error, I then may swap the stock busings out for a total replacement. Like I said, one thing at a time. I am in no hurry to skip a step in better understanding the tone of my guitar.
 

Minibucker

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2003
Messages
6,372
I think either would work, as I've read reported success with the 'centered' conversion bushings. With the offsets, it's supposed to allow yo some range to rotate each to find the 'right spot', but again I tried some and they're a mess. And again, a screw into a bushing now with another separate thumbwheel on it….one too many things.

The stock bushings should lift out of the guitar rather easily (unless they're glued in, which I doubt the factory does)…you could also get a 'pulling' tool from Stew Mac that does it. Then you could simply press in something like the Faber posts that I showed earlier. Frankly, I'd just go right for that if I were you, easy to switch back if you're selling the guitar or what have you.
 

sonar

New member
Joined
Jan 10, 2003
Messages
3,589
I would forego the conversion posts that go into the Nashville bushings and get either an ABR-type that fits over the Nashville thumbwheels/posts...

From my personal experience I would recommend this approach. I did the Faber BSWKIT conversion, which in hindsight I believe is a little too intrusive of a mod for, at best, marginal results.
 
Top